Southern Sicily might be Italy’s most underrated destination
Southern Sicily doesn’t put on a show for you because it doesn’t need to. The beauty here isn’t polished or packaged like some of Italy’s northern towns - it’s a little rough around the edges but that is what makes it such an incredible place to visit.
Our journey south started with a drive out from Catania, immediately escaping the hustle of a larger city.
First stop: Sutera. You can see this town looming from a distance and the village clings to the hillside beneath this looming rock formation, and everything about it feels stripped back.
Sutera from a distance
Driving in, I found myself breathing in, in the hopes that would help our car fit through the narrow alleys!
You walk uphill through narrow lanes, past homes that look lived in rather than styled, and eventually the landscape just opens up and you can see for miles.
The alleys of Sutera are no joke
There’s not a lot to ‘do’ in Sutera, and that’s exactly the point – especially when you visit during lunchtime as we did and there was no one else in the street.
Agrigento, on the other hand, is one of those places where you do need a bit of intent. The Valley of the Temples is undeniably impressive, but it’s also exposed and unforgiving in the heat. Go early or go late, keep it tight, and don’t try to turn it into an all-day affair.
The charming streets of Agrigento
Wandering the town itself, you feel like part of every-day life. We discovered incredible local delis and pockets of charm where we could enjoy a drink.
The sandwich of my dreams
The next stop is the coast, and Scala dei Turchi (Stairs of the Turks) feels almost surreal.
The first thing that catches you is the vibrance – you will definitely need your sunnies here. The limestone is this striking, chalky white that almost glows against the sea. The rock has been worn smooth over time, forming these soft, curved terraces that spill down toward the water. It genuinely feels like something sculpted rather than natural.
Scala dei Turchi
Walking on it is part of the experience. The surface is warm underfoot, almost polished in places, and you find yourself moving slowly without really thinking about it. People tend to spread out along the curves, sitting, lying back, watching the water shift colour as the light changes.
Timing matters here as in recent years, authorities are limiting how many people and when they can visit. Don’t come too late or you will miss out, though you can still swim nearby.
Fun at the Beach Lounge
If you do miss out, or just feel like admiring it from a distance, there are beach lounges like Lounge Beach Scala dei Turchi along the way, and this is the perfect spot for a cooling beverage.
Not far from there, the coastal region of San Leone is a great spot to enjoy sunset. You can walk along the water’s edge or really lean as we did with sundowners as Al Calante.
Al Calante
This is a sunset drinks spot, and it does that exceptionally well. There’s a definite Café del Mar energy to it, but without the pretence. Music drifting in the background, the light softening over the sea, people settling in rather than moving on and families embracing the vibe too.
Sometimes an Aperol is the only answer
You grab a drink, find a spot facing the water, and the whole place just eases into the evening.
After all that exploring, you will want to have a spot to rest your head. We chose somewhere with a water view (because why not?)
Casa Vacanze Il Tucano delivers. It’s relaxed, personal, and far enough from the noise to give you space, but still close to everything you need. Plus, the views and the pool are the perfect reprieve from that hot Sicilian sun.
Casa Vacanze il Tucano
If you prefer beaches over pools, the accommodation is just a short walk from Lido Maddalusa. This is a quiet, more local-feeling stretch of coast just outside Agrigento with calm seas that welcome you for a dip any time of day.
Lido Maddalusa
Leaving the coast again on our drive east, we made another lunchtime stop in Noto. This UNESCO-listed town is undeniably pretty, but it also feels a bit more curated than everywhere else you’ve been.
Noto
All golden Baroque architecture, wide streets, and that honey-coloured glow in the late afternoon. You don’t need long here. We spent a few hours wandering, had some gelato and lunch before moving on again.
Our last stop in Southern Sicily was by far my favourite.
The twin towns of Syracuse and Ortgia aren’t just good looking. Syracuse was once one of the most powerful cities in the entire ancient Greek world. We’re talking on par with Athens at its peak.
A rocky dip on Ortiga
Ortigia is small island at the heart of Syracuse, and you can still feel that layered history when you walk through it. Over time, it’s been shaped by just about everyone who’s passed through Sicily. That’s why Ortigia feels the way it does now. Greek foundations, Roman remnants, Baroque facades, all stacked on top of each other. It’s a place that’s been fought over, rebuilt, and reshaped for nearly 3,000 years.
The relaxed daily life on Ortiga
We stayed in an Airbnb in Syracuse and walked onto the island each day of our visit.
Wandering the tight streets, you will find beautiful squares and then the next corner delivers stunning sea views. It’s a place you can wander without a plan and still fill an entire day.
Sunset on Ortiga
At the far edge on the island of Ortiga sits Castello Maniace, and it’s worth the walk out.
Built in the 13th century under Frederick II, the castle (or more accurately, fortress) was designed to control access to the city and defend one of the most strategically important ports in the Mediterranean.
Castello Maniace
Inside, it’s fairly minimal (don’t expect curated exhibits) but still so interesting to see. You can buy a ticket for around €6.
Southern Sicily isn’t just about ticking boxes. It’s about moments like the unexpected village, the sandwich I dream of finding again, the stunning sunsets that seem to last hours and I can 100 per cent see myself returning here someday…
Sunset in San Leone
