Allison Wallace 3/17/26 Allison Wallace 3/17/26

Southern Sicily might be Italy’s most underrated destination

Southern Sicily doesn’t put on a show for you because it doesn’t need to. The beauty here isn’t polished or packaged like some of Italy’s northern towns - it’s a little rough around the edges but that is what makes it such an incredible place to visit.

Our journey south started with a drive out from Catania, immediately escaping the hustle of a larger city.

First stop: Sutera. You can see this town looming from a distance and the village clings to the hillside beneath this looming rock formation, and everything about it feels stripped back.

Driving in, I found myself breathing in, in the hopes that would help our car fit through the narrow alleys!

You walk uphill through narrow lanes, past homes that look lived in rather than styled, and eventually the landscape just opens up and you can see for miles.

There’s not a lot to ‘do’ in Sutera, and that’s exactly the point – especially when you visit during lunchtime as we did and there was no one else in the street.

Agrigento, on the other hand, is one of those places where you do need a bit of intent. The Valley of the Temples is undeniably impressive, but it’s also exposed and unforgiving in the heat. Go early or go late, keep it tight, and don’t try to turn it into an all-day affair.

Wandering the town itself, you feel like part of every-day life. We discovered incredible local delis and pockets of charm where we could enjoy a drink.

The next stop is the coast, and Scala dei Turchi (Stairs of the Turks) feels almost surreal.

The first thing that catches you is the vibrance – you will definitely need your sunnies here. The limestone is this striking, chalky white that almost glows against the sea. The rock has been worn smooth over time, forming these soft, curved terraces that spill down toward the water. It genuinely feels like something sculpted rather than natural.

Walking on it is part of the experience. The surface is warm underfoot, almost polished in places, and you find yourself moving slowly without really thinking about it. People tend to spread out along the curves, sitting, lying back, watching the water shift colour as the light changes.

Timing matters here as in recent years, authorities are limiting how many people and when they can visit. Don’t come too late or you will miss out, though you can still swim nearby.

If you do miss out, or just feel like admiring it from a distance, there are beach lounges like Lounge Beach Scala dei Turchi along the way, and this is the perfect spot for a cooling beverage.

Not far from there, the coastal region of San Leone is a great spot to enjoy sunset. You can walk along the water’s edge or really lean as we did with sundowners as Al Calante.

This is a sunset drinks spot, and it does that exceptionally well. There’s a definite Café del Mar energy to it, but without the pretence. Music drifting in the background, the light softening over the sea, people settling in rather than moving on and families embracing the vibe too.

You grab a drink, find a spot facing the water, and the whole place just eases into the evening.

After all that exploring, you will want to have a spot to rest your head. We chose somewhere with a water view (because why not?)

Casa Vacanze Il Tucano delivers. It’s relaxed, personal, and far enough from the noise to give you space, but still close to everything you need. Plus, the views and the pool are the perfect reprieve from that hot Sicilian sun.

If you prefer beaches over pools, the accommodation is just a short walk from Lido Maddalusa. This is a quiet, more local-feeling stretch of coast just outside Agrigento with calm seas that welcome you for a dip any time of day.

Leaving the coast again on our drive east, we made another lunchtime stop in Noto. This UNESCO-listed town is undeniably pretty, but it also feels a bit more curated than everywhere else you’ve been.

All golden Baroque architecture, wide streets, and that honey-coloured glow in the late afternoon. You don’t need long here. We spent a few hours wandering, had some gelato and lunch before moving on again.

Our last stop in Southern Sicily was by far my favourite.

The twin towns of Syracuse and Ortgia aren’t just good looking. Syracuse was once one of the most powerful cities in the entire ancient Greek world. We’re talking on par with Athens at its peak.

Ortigia is small island at the heart of Syracuse, and you can still feel that layered history when you walk through it. Over time, it’s been shaped by just about everyone who’s passed through Sicily. That’s why Ortigia feels the way it does now. Greek foundations, Roman remnants, Baroque facades, all stacked on top of each other. It’s a place that’s been fought over, rebuilt, and reshaped for nearly 3,000 years.

We stayed in an Airbnb in Syracuse and walked onto the island each day of our visit.

Wandering the tight streets, you will find beautiful squares and then the next corner delivers stunning sea views. It’s a place you can wander without a plan and still fill an entire day.

At the far edge on the island of Ortiga sits Castello Maniace, and it’s worth the walk out.

Built in the 13th century under Frederick II, the castle (or more accurately, fortress) was designed to control access to the city and defend one of the most strategically important ports in the Mediterranean.

Inside, it’s fairly minimal (don’t expect curated exhibits) but still so interesting to see. You can buy a ticket for around €6.

Southern Sicily isn’t just about ticking boxes. It’s about moments like the unexpected village, the sandwich I dream of finding again, the stunning sunsets that seem to last hours and I can 100 per cent see myself returning here someday…

Allison Wallace 12/22/25 Allison Wallace 12/22/25

Sigiriya, Sri Lanka: Come for the views, stay for the vibe

If you’ve seen photos of Sri Lanka, it is likely you have spied Sigiriya Rock Fortress jutting up, but it is not the only thing worth exploring in this scenic and uncrowded part of Sri Lanka.

First things first, how do you get to Sigiriya?

It’s a small, yet spread out, town without a train station or main bus stops so to get here by public transport, you will need to travel by bus to nearby Dambulla. From there it is an easy Tuk Tuk ride.

However, we found the easiest, and most comfortable, way was with a driver from Colombo for the three of us and our luggage. It was nice to have someone to point out things along the way and we also stopped to visit Dambulla Cave Temple before arriving in Sigiriya – right at our accommodation.

We stayed at 3-star Sigiriya Sunshine Villa and it was lovely and there are so many similar options around the place. I do recommend getting somewhere with a pool though – the days were 35-degrees.

On arrival, it is impossible to miss the towering 200m rock jutting up from a mainly flat landscape, but it wasn’t our first stop!

We decided to head up a nearby rock for sunset to give us a panoramic view of Lion Rock (Sigiriya Rock Fortress).

Pidurangala Rock

Pidurangala Rock is a nearby hike (about a kilometre from the ‘town’) that is definitely a popular option for good views. Note that there is a small entrance fee here, but much cheaper than Lion Rock itself.

Before you ascend the hike itself, you have to walk through Pidurangala sacred site, so modest clothing is required - shoulders and knees must be covered. Free sarongs are provided that you can use as you walk through this section, which is great because in October, this was a warm hike.

To make it to the top is around a 30-45 minute hike which is good to keep in mind if you want to time your arrival with sunrise or sunset. We packed some head torches for the trip down.

The path to the top is well maintained up until you reach the Pidurangala Cave Temple where there is a reclining Buddha. After the cave temple, it becomes more of a scramble and you must find your own path to the top over some large rocks and boulders. At certain points you will have to give way to those making their way down as there is only room for one person at a time.

At the top, you can wander around for 360-degree views of the surrounding countryside and an amazing view of Sigiriya Rock.

While there was no amazing sunset for us due to low-lying clouds, we still had an incredible view and spent at least half an hour at the top before making our way back down.

Sigiriya Lion Rock

After a relaxing afternoon, we got up early (before sunrise) the next morning to head up the iconic Lion Rock. We were hoping for sunrise but we also wanted to avoid the hottest parts of the day.

It costs US$35 for foreigners to enter Sigiriya which isn’t cheap, but it really is a beautiful place to visit.

Sigiriya Fortress is not a temple or a sacred place, so you don’t have to cover your shoulders and knees for this walk.

This incredible site is where King Kassapa I (477-495 CE) built his fortress-palace and definitely worthy it’s UNESCO World Heritage status.

You pass through some of the landscaped royal gardens as you walk towards the giant rock, impressive even in the misty early morning light.

The first set of steps through the rocks will take you up to the famous lion paw staircase, which is how the Lion Rock Fortress got its name.

From there, staring up at the narrow metal staircase seems daunting but there are places to rest along the way – even if the stairs seem to be precariously nailed into the side of the rock.

At the top, you can wander around exploring the ruins of the fortified palace and enjoying different vantage points along with some monkey spotting.

The views from the summit are breathtaking – especially once the clouds clear!

Kaudulla National Park

On the advice of our driver (shoutout to Amila who also runs guided tours), we also made a spontaneous trip to nearby Kaudulla National Park.

We just booked an afternoon trip through our accommodation and didn’t regret it for a second.

This park is known for massive seasonal elephant gatherings around the ancient Kaudulla Reservoir, making it a prime spot for safaris, especially August to December. It is one of 10 parks in Sri Lanka where elephants roam freely.

Within minutes of us entering the park, we spied our first elephants in the distance, hiding in the brush.

Not long after that we saw a herd swimming, washing and playing in the water. We weren’t close but it was awe-inspiring to see.

We spent several hours admiring these guys at a respectful distance before making our way out of the park, passing bird and Langur monkeys too.

On our drive back to Sigiriya, we passed several elephants on the side of the road… I guess they don’t know where the national park boundaries are!

In our spare time in Sigiriya in the heat of the day, we lazed by our accommodation pool and found cute spots to eat – some of which like Sigiriya Lion Face have incredible views of the iconic rock while you enjoy your food.

Getting around was easy despite the town being so spread out, booking Tuk Tuks through our hotel was a breeze.

Allison Wallace 5/8/25 Allison Wallace 5/8/25

Finding the quiet heart of the Amalfi Coast at Domus Claudia

When most people think of the Amalfi Coast, their minds jump straight to Positano or Amalfi. But let me let you in on a little secret: Atrani is where the real magic happens. One of Italy’s smallest villages is tucked between dramatic cliffs and the glittering Tyrrhenian Sea, this tiny town is the quiet gem of the Amalfi Coast - and I found my own slice of heaven at Domus Claudia Airbnb.

I fell in love with Atrani before I even unpacked my suitcase, despite the stairs to get to our room. And honestly? I think it had a lot to do with how wonderfully, blissfully quiet it is. While Positano dazzles with her glam and Amalfi buzzes with boats and gelato-chasing crowds, Atrani feels like the calm, sun-drenched little sister - leaning back against the cliffs, totally unbothered, sipping a spritz in the shade.

And nestled right into this serene slice of the Amalfi Coast is where we stayed: Domus Claudia.

We booked the King Room with a sea view, and let me tell you, those views did NOT disappoint. From the moment we opened the shutters, we were met with a watercolour-worthy scene of deep blue ocean boats and cliffs. Mornings here? A salty breeze with the hint of espresso. Nights? Moonlight dancing on the water, the whole town hushed like it’s sharing a secret.

The room here was massive in size and decorated in beautiful cool tiles, and you get your own private bathroom too. The owner even provided a chilled beer on arrival which was amazing after lugging our bags up the stairs.

But there’s even more to enjoy: the rooftop terrace which is where we enjoyed our cold beers. I swear it’s one of the best-kept secrets on the coast. A magical little perch above it all - ideal for morning yoga (if you're that kind of person), golden hour Aperol spritzes (if you're my kind of person), or just pretending you’re in a movie.

Now, if you’ve ever been to the Amalfi Coast in peak season (or just seen some photos of those packed beaches), you know the drill - crowds, lines, narrow roads full of scooters and honking cars. Atrani? It’s like stepping into a postcard that forgot to invite the tourists. You can stroll from the quiet beach to the piazza in 30 seconds, and if you time it right, you’ll find yourself the only one wandering those quiet cobbled alleys. We loved our quiet mornings here swimming before breakfast and an espresso.

Views in another direction from our room at Domus Claudia

We used Atrani as our home base for four nights and walked to Amalfi in about 10 minutes (yes, really). There is a pedestrian tunnel that connects the two towns, meaning ferries to other parts of the Amalfi Coast are super accessible.

After exploring Amalfi or hiking the Path of the Gods, we’d return to Domus Claudia, slip off our shoes, and exhale into that sweet, salty quiet.

If you’re looking for the perfect blend of sun, sea, and serenity, skip the crowds and stay in Atrani. And if you want a place that feels like your very own Amalfi fairytale - Domus Claudia is it. Just don’t tell too many people. Let’s keep this little dream between us, okay?

Allison Wallace 1/28/25 Allison Wallace 1/28/25

A day trip to Comino Island

Chances are, you have seen a picture or two of the Blue Lagoon.

This idyllic lagoon is found on Comino, a little gem of an island belonging to the Maltese archipelago, situated between Malta and Gozo.

It may be small, but it sure is mighty. Think stunning nature, crystal-clear turquoise water and hiking trails with breathtaking views.

We took a day trip there while staying on nearby Gozo. A ferry trip will take you about 15 to 20 minutes and then the day is yours.

My advice is to go early. We just walked down to the ferry terminal in Mgarr Harbour and bought a ticket for the next boat over. Don’t lose your card for the return trip – they are colour-coded based on who you booked through and some of the ferries go back to different parts of Malta.

As soon as you get off the boat, you can’t help but notice this incredibly vibrant blue stretch of water – that’s the Blue Lagoon and it can be tempting to stay here all day but that would be a mistake!

We had packed plenty of water and a sense of adventure and decided to spend our day walking around the island exploring – we could then spend as much time as wanted at the lagoon before heading back to Gozo.

There are no cars on Comino, but also not really any signposts, so we just followed the paths in the direction we wanted.

The one downside of walking on Comino is that in summer, it was pretty warm and there is no shade on this wild and wonderful island, so we definitely got pretty hot.

Our first stop was the Crystal Lagoon – just a 15 minute stroll around the cliff. Much less visited as most people only come by boat, this lagoon is surrounded by dramatic cliffs, hidden caves and tunnels.

You need to be wearing proper shoes and scramble down the rocks a bit. We did some light snorkelling and explored some caves and tunnels before taking to the cliffs for a couple of rock jumps. I was a bit scared to go from the higher points but Aiden did it in style.

From here we walked along the dramatic cliff edges towards the Santa Marja Tower. We could only admire this from a distance as it is currently closed.

This tower was built in 1618 to defend the island. It is visible from Gozo island and the ferry. Interestingly, in the 17th century, Comino served as a place of imprisonment or exile for errant knights.

From here we definitely wanted to explore some more and started to head along the coast towards Elephant Rock. About half way there, we realized it was too hot and we weren’t going to enjoy it so changed course and cut through the middle of island and made Santa Maria Bay our next stop.

Passing by a chapel, we emerged to a gorgeous, protected bay for a beer and a swim.

After a refreshing break here, it was time to go back to the start.

We followed the coastline back and I am pretty sure this isn’t a path and would have been more direct to go back inland but it is an adventure after all!. It would be hard to get lost here but there is an abandoned resort that is fenced off and we had to walk our way inland around that but we made it.

As we walked back down towards the Blue Lagoon, there are loads of food trucks lining the hill. We picked one for a kebab and a beer and had lunch overlooking the bay.

You can hire chairs and umbrellas on the rocks from the attendants on the beach but that really isn’t our style so we ate perched on a rock – there is no beach here.

The long narrow bay of bright blue water is surrounded by a rocky landscape, but the smooth sand at the bottom of the water make you almost feel like you’re swimming in a pool – albeit a crowded one.

We spied some rocky cave across the lagoon and went to swim for it. The current across the middle of the lagoon was actually kind of intense and then understood the need for the lifeguards.

The cave was cool – riding the swell in and out for a while and then we swam back. At this point, I was starting to feel a little crispy and it was nearly 4pm so we decided to grab the next boat back to Gozo.

This was not as simple as it sounds! The tiny jetty handles all the boats and ferries heading to and from various parts of Malta and there is no way of knowing which boat is yours until it arrives and someone yells out which colour is to board. Our boat only fit around 10 passengers but it was still so hectic and there were people shoving and pushing – mostly trying to escape the scorching sun. To make matters worse, there is a swimming area there with limited access so that adds another couple of dozen humans to the mix.

Once back on our boat, we had an added 10 minutes of driving around some caves on Comino before zooming across to Gozo. They call this a ‘caves tour’ but there is no commentary from the Capitan and you have no idea where you are, but it was pretty to see from the water what we had seen from the cliffs above.

Allison Wallace 1/28/25 Allison Wallace 1/28/25

Malta’s Gems: Exploring Gozo

Tucked away between Sicily and the North African coast, Malta is the ultimate Mediterranean escape and while small, the country is made up of more than one island.

The islands of Gozo and Comino to the north are hidden gems just waiting to be discovered.

We started our adventure with our bags on board a fast ferry taking us from Valetta to Gozo, docking in Mġarr – this is where we were basing ourselves for the next couple of days.

The port in Mġarr looks small but busy and charming and I was glad to see some restaurants around, meaning we wouldn’t have to travel for our evening meals.

Having spent a couple of days exploring the cities on the main island of Malta, we didn’t want to be landlocked and felt this was a good base and checked into the Grand Hotel Gozo with views across the harbour.

After arriving, we immediately wanted to get out and explore so we headed for a coastal walk from the port along the cliffs to Gorgun Beach.

I am not sure the word ‘beach’ really applies here but the walk was scenic and hot so there was no way we weren’t swimming.

Shoes are recommended as you make your way down some stairs and across some large and slippery rocks to make your way into the water. The day we were there, there was a bit of swell so had to be super careful getting back out.

The next day was the day to explore further afield. We had booked some a buggy through Gozo Quad Hire for the whole day. We self-drove but you can join a tour as well.

The guys came and picked us up from our hotel first thing in the morning and after a quick briefing, we were on our way.

The first stop was Grech’s bakery for a sweet donut and an espresso to fuel us for the day.

We had decided to do a lap of the island starting on the eastern side and heading north. This took us to Hondoq ir-Rummien where we stopped for a look around and enjoyed the view. We were there very early with not many people around and offering crystal clear water, but we were quite ready for a swim yet.

Next up, we headed down a winding road to Daħlet Qorrot Beach. I almost don’t want to share this spot because it was magical, and we could have spent all day here.

There were no other tourists, just locals out for their morning walk and swim and a few people learning how to dive.

The most inviting water at Daħlet Qorrot

The word hidden gem gets thrown around a lot, but this beach truly lived up to the phrase. The pebbly cove is surrounded by lush countryside and bordered by carved cliffs resulting in the perfect sheltered bay for swimming and snorkelling. The peace and the quiet here without shops or buildings is unmatched in the Mediterranean.

After dragging ourselves out of the sea and on our way, knowing that our buggy maxed out at 50km/h and while small, we wouldn’t make it around the whole island if we dallied too long, we headed for Ramla Beach.

Passing a vineyard on our left and stalls on our right, we headed down a straight, flat road – such a novelty for the island and ended on rich red sand.

This beach was much more developed and busier than where we had just left so we felt we didn’t need a swim (plus the sand was scorching hot) so walked down for a look and then headed back for a refreshing beer overlooking the calm ocean in front.

By now, I was getting a little hungry, so we pulled up in Marsalforn for some lunch. We opted to find a spot away from the restaurants lining the bay and tucked into some incredible Thai food a couple of streets back.

Long before visiting Malta, I had seen images of Xwejni Bay and the salt pans but nothing prepares you for seeing it in real life.

The Xwejni salt pans stretch three kilometres along the coast and have been used for more than 350 years. A salt pan is a shallow reservoir dug out of limestone rock to collect seawater. As the water evaporates, white salt crystals remain. The crystals are then dried and packed into salt pouches – collected about once a month in summer and it is incredible to see it in action.

After exploring here (from a distance as you cannot walk on the pans themselves), we headed to another spot I absolutely had to see for myself - Wied il-Għasri.

Driving down a dirt road and parking wherever we could find a spot out of the way, we headed in the direction of the sea. Before you make it, you can see a fissure in the land ahead.

Wied il-Għasri resembles a canyon and stretches 300 metres inland to a tiny pebble beach. To get down, you walk down about 100 steps carved into the porous walls of the sandstone.

Like most, we have to stop in awe as the winding bay appears before us on the way down. Towel down and slow stumble to the water’s edge across the soft pebbles (we had no water shoes) and into the clear bay we float.

Over the years, the swirling sea has carved out the sides of the gorge, creating caves and pockets beneath the water's surface. We swim almost to the mouth of the gorge but, feeling the pull of the current on our toes, stay safely away from the wide-open ocean.

After a relaxing swim (although it was quite busy when we visited in peak summer), it was on to what would be our last stop for the day.

If you google Gozo, you will probably see images of a rock arch over the sea. Unfortunately, the 28m tall Azure Window collapsed into the ocean in 2017 but this part of the coastline is still spectacular and worth a visit.

In addition to the Inland Sea – a natural sea pool connected to the sea by an 80-m long tunnel – this exposed part of the north-western coastline is dramatic and wild. It was also a filming location for season 1 of Game of Thrones!

We wanted to make a stop at Xlendi Beach and Victoria on the way back to our hotel but we had run out of time needed to return the buggy! We drove slowly through Victoria to get a sense of the city and got back just on closing time and the guys dropped us back to Mġarr so we could refresh and have a cocktail while we relived the day’s highlights.

It is crazy that you can fit so much to see on one tiny island and we didn’t even get to explore it all!

Allison Wallace 12/17/24 Allison Wallace 12/17/24

Traversing the breathtaking Path of the Gods

The Amalfi Coast in Italy is stunning from any angle but hiking along the clifftops of the Sentiero degli Dei (the Path of the Gods) offers up unbeatable views.

The official path runs from the small mountain-top town of Bomerano and finishes in Nocelle but you can continue (as we did) down the 1700+ stairs to end up 500 metres below in bustling Positano. Just prepare your legs for that finish!

It is recommended to do the hike in this direction to make the most of the views but also as this way has less uphill so is a little easier on the legs.

This has to be one of the most beautiful walks but honestly, it is probably not for the faint of heart in the Italian summer heat and there is some up and down as you hike along.

We did this hike in August 2024, and it was HOT. We caught one of the first morning buses from Amalfi town to take us the 40 minutes up the winding mountain roads to do as much of the hike before it got too hot.

The only catch with this early bus is that we did have to hunt to find a place that sold bus tickets at that time, we ended up finding a café in Amalfi that sold them but only if we grabbed an espresso as well – cash only too for those that are wondering.

The bus dropped us near the main piazza of Bomerano and we grabbed a mozzarella roll and another espresso to fuel us for the walk ahead.

You walk out of town a little to the official start of the trail. From there, the trail is easy to follow—look out for the red and white lines that mark it along the way. Follow signs for Sentiero degli Dei, trail #327 and after about 800m you will be at the official entry to the hike.

The official start of the Path of the Gods

We had a day of bright sunshine and there isn’t too much shade along the way. I was grateful we had packed loads of water and sunscreen with us for the morning out.

The trail itself is a mix of graded dirt and gravel trails, up and down large stone steps, and over rockier, uneven trails – we were passed by a herd of goats that are clearly more accustomed to this kind of terrain!

About two kilometres in, there is a fork in the road, an option for those that are truly afraid of heights to take a slightly different path to Nocelle. The main cliff path with the spectacular scenery is #327, and #327a will take you on a less exposed path.

This is where the trail really delivers the views. We really took our time over the next couple of kilometres, soaking up the Amalfi Coast vistas. The dramatic peninsula seems to stretch forever in the distance.

Alongside the breathtaking clifftop, we passed by terraced farms, lush vineyards, and fields of wheat.

Along the way, there are a couple of water points and picnic benches were excellent places to stop for a breather and enjoy the views. We actually stopped at what felt like just after half way for a frozen lemon drink at what looked like a shack on the edge of the cliff. I later discovered that this eclectic construction is called Ulisee’s House and was perfect for cooling off a little in the shade.

As we got close to Nocelle, we could even see the Island of Capri in the distance.

Nocelle is a tiny village but we stopped at a little restaurant/bar as we entered the town that offered incredible views. A couple of cold beers at Il Chiosco del Sentiero Degli Dei were just what we needed before tackling all the stairs to Positano.

Thankfully the views on the way down are worth the burning quads but I did have to stop a few times to take a little break.

Once you reach the bottom of the stairs, you actually have to walk along a part of the winding road to get to Positano. I probably found this the most stressful as there is no footpath and the road seems barely wide enough for one car!

After a day of seeing very few people, the teeming masses as we encountered as we walked in to Positano was a little overwhelming. We stopped at a restaurant along the way to grab a bite to eat and another cold drink. I couldn’t even tell you the name.

We wandered around for a little bit before deciding we needed to head back to our quieter side of the coast. This meant again braving masses of people to find the right ferry to take us back to Amalfi town where we jumped in for a swim before walking back through the pedestrian tunnel to Atrani.

In my opinion, the Path of the Gods is definitely worth hiking. It’s a beautiful trail that gives you a different perspective on the stunning Amalfi coastline, and if you start early, it’s also a peaceful escape from the crowds that seem to be everywhere in the busy summer season.

The stats:

From Bomerano to Nocelle, it is about 6.5km and should take about two to three hours.
If you are adding the steps down to Positano, allow at least an extra half an hour to an hour as the elevation drops from 450m to 80m.
Total Ascent: 235 metres
Total Descent: 780 metres
Highest Elevation: 650 metres
Lowest Elevation: 80 metres

Allison Wallace 8/8/24 Allison Wallace 8/8/24

Cruising Atherton’s Waterfall Way

About an hour out of Cairns, there is a tropical wonderland that has nothing to do with the Great Barrier Reef. And no, I am not talking about the Daintree Rainforest – amazing as that is.

I have been to Cairns many times but never explored the Atherton Tablelands – specifically what is known as the waterfall circuit.

This area is a natural playground of tropical forests, volcanic crater lakes, and rivers rushing towards the coast to create a wonderland of incredible waterfalls and I couldn’t wait to explore them.

We started our day trip after a coffee by heading to probably one of the most Instagrammed waterfalls in the area - Millaa Millaa Falls.

We got there early and managed to almost have this spot to ourselves to admire the 18-metre drop. It’s not too much of a swimming spot as the water is very shallow until right near the falls but it is awe-inspiring to soak in the majesty of nature.

Access is pretty easy from the top carpark down a short stone walk or if you have mobility issues, you can get to the viewing platform from the bottom carpark.

The Instagram-worthy Millaa Millaa Falls

Our next stop was just down the road at Zillie Falls where we were a little disappointed with the views from the platform.

Access to the platform is pretty easy, across the road from the carpark (but with no crossing so be careful!)

The view is quite restricted, not really looking down at it, but not looking across it either, it’s yet another view that doesn’t allow you to take in the waterfall’s full beauty.

We weren’t able to uncover any sort of official track down to the base of Zillie Falls and given we were there smack bang in the middle of wet season, it didn’t seem like a good idea to try and scramble down the rocks.

Our final waterfall on the ‘official’ circuit was Ellinjaa Falls, and it was probably my favourite.

A short zig-zag walk from the carpark brings you out to a beautiful view of the falls. To get in the water for a swim, you do have to carefully walk over the shallow rocks to get to a space deep enough to swim.

We ended up having this beautiful waterfall all to ourselves, laughing and squealing as we swam through the powerful falls to discover a private cavern behind, unable to hold a conversation because of the thunderous noise of water crashing down from 12 metres above.

On our drive back to Cairns, we detoured to check out Josephine Falls. The walk to see this incredible feat of nature is a bit longer – around 1.2km – but it isn’t strenuous and the surrounds are lush and rainforesty.

Josephine Falls is a popular tourist spot with a natural waterslide drawing people in.

Unfortunately for us, there would be no swimming (or sliding) down these falls for us as the water levels were dangerously high after crazy rainfalls the week before we arrived.

Nationals Parks have even installed an alert system here with closeable gates and coloured lights to indicate when water levels aren’t safe –people have lost their lives. With too much rain it becomes dangerous to swim but the tradeoff comes in the ferocious views, the loud screaming torrent and the furious deluge you are able to witness.

Deciding we needed one last swim before retiring from chasing waterfalls for the day, we drove just down the road to Babina Boulders and the Devil’s Pool.

The Devil's Pool walk is a 1.3km return walk along Babinda Creek downstream from the Babinda Boulders picnic area and carpark. The walk isn’t difficult, slightly undulating along a rough bitumen track, the walk leads through the rainforest to two viewing platforms where the creek cascades down a series of spectacular waterfalls, granite boulders and washpools.

There is no swimming down this end of the creek, despite how tempting the deep pools amongst the boulders look. There’s a barrier on the lookout point and warning signs about the dangers of swimming here.

After walking back, take a different turn from the carpark and you will find one of the calmest and most beautiful swimming spots. I could spend a whole day here.

Imagine a beautiful creek with crystal clear water that weaves around huge boulders. Even during the hottest days in summer, the water here is still quite cool and perfect for a refreshing swim.

We found a rushing current we could jump into and float along before getting back out and doing it all again like the big kids that we are.

While we didn’t visit on that same day, the day we were flying out, we made an effort to see one last waterfall.

Crystal Cascades is a series of water holes and waterfalls along Freshwater Creek in the Baron Gorge National Park, 17 kilometres from Cairns.

An easy 1.5-kilometre walk along the creek will bring you to several cascading waterfalls and a large swimming hole and the morning we went, we had the place to ourselves!

We didn’t swim at the top end of the falls with the rushing water looking a bit too intense but jumped in for a dip at one of the swimming holes we had passed on our way up to the lookout to cool off from the March humidity.

If you are looking for a unique waterfall experience in the area, Emerald Creek Falls is amazing!

Allison Wallace 8/3/21 Allison Wallace 8/3/21

Discover remote luxury at Gilberton Outback Retreat

When you think of a remote cattle station, luxury isn’t the first thing that comes to mind but that is exactly what you are going to get at Gilberton Outback Retreat.

In the heart of the Queensland Outback, about six hours drive west of Townsville, Gilberton is a huge working cattle station. It’s a dusty drive in but welcome you receive when you get there makes it all worth it.

If you’re not keen to drive so far or prefer to visit during the wet season, when roads are often cut, helicopter charters are available.

Home to around 1200 head of Brahmin cattle and an incredibly deluxe cabin that owners Lyn and Rob built from stone from the property. Each rock was chosen specifically and this level of detail shows. Appreciate the large pieces of granite, sandstone, quartz, ironbark, ironwood and lancewood that make up the bones of this ‘hut,’ as Lyn referred to it!

Out here there’s no phone, no television and no Wi-Fi, just uninterrupted views of the Gilberton River and the company of the family at the homestead where dinner is served.

The retreat open to the elements and is decked out with a king bed and a luxurious bathtub. Don't worry, there's no one around to see you - the retreat only hosts two people at a time meaning you can enjoy the uninterrupted panoramic views from the outdoor bath without feeling self-conscious.

There are small, interesting details throughout the retreat that really tell a story. The soap caddy in the open shower is made from an old horseshoe, the base of the table where we ate breakfast is and old singer sewing machine and the pedal is well-oiled and still works.

Lyn and Rob and have thought of everything. There is a welcome platter of cheese and snacks, the fridge is full stocked with beer, wine and champers, you will find toiletries in the bathroom should you have forgotten something and a coffee pot for your morning fix.

While open to the elements and Queensland nights in May get cool – we were thrilled to discover the most plush, warm doona I have ever seen on the bed. Not once did I feel cold which is no mean feat.

After sharing a home cooked meal at the homestead with the family, we settled in for a sound sleep on our first night here, listening to the sounds of the outback as we dozed off.

Gilberton Station started in 1869 and has been passed down through seven generations, this family know every inch of their property and it is such a privilege that they share it with you!

Visitors here can make the experience all their own. Relax, get involved in station life, explore indigenous rock art on the property or fossick for gold around an old mine.

Incredible art that survives the elements and time.

On our first morning, Lyn takes us on a buggy drive and a short 350m hike to an Aboriginal rock art site. More than 30,000 years ago, the Ewamian, Jana and Woolgar peoples walked this land and Lyn works hard to make sure it remains untouched, apparently never taking the same route to the spot.

We sit under a cave ledge that protects the etchings with billy tea and baked morning tea, admiring the art and artefacts that you can see all around you.

On our drive back through the station, we checked on the cow ‘nursery’ as there were many new calves hanging out with their mums.

After a relaxed lunch, we headed out with one of the prospectors staying on the property to see if we could find some gold. Armed with metal detectors and a positive attitude we found two small pieces in about three hours so won’t be quitting our day jobs just yet.

It was fun to give it a go through, I am pretty sure Aiden has gold fever and wants to keep searching but Falcor and I were ready to go back and relax.

We return to the retreat and I unwind in the free-standing tub, chilled champagne on call from a slightly unwilling Aiden. In the changing light of dusk, the sky moved through every mood.

The day wasn’t over as we wandered over the hill to enjoy a firepit BBQ with the family and some prospectors who are also staying on the station. Good food, good wine, good company and a seemingly endless canopy of stars and I can see myself spending a lot more time here!

Several hours later, the full moon guided us on the short walk back to the retreat for another sound sleep.

Our final morning has arrived and I want to soak up every last second in this retreat. We enjoy breakfast made from the hamper in the fridge (eggs, cheese, ham and fruit) looking over the river and play with Falcor before jumping in the car for the long drive to Townsville.

Beyond the natural beauty and the one-of-a-kind accommodation, the main thing I am taking with me is the time with our hosts, Lyn and Rob. They opened not only their station, but their home to visitors and there is a connection to the land here that is unbreakable.

You will hear fascinating stories and conversations about floods, droughts, mining stories and even a fire that destroyed the original family homestead.

The guys here have done everything they can to protect the land and environment for future generations, not something that comes to mind when you remember you are on a cattle station, but this is so much more than that.

As well as receiving a Nature Tourism certification, the retreat is carbon neutral and solar powered – as is the whole farm. All the food you eat during your all-inclusive stay is sourced from local producers and a sustainable garden on site.

As we leave all I can think of is visiting in the wet season to see the river brimming and wildlife teeming. I imagine it would be like visiting a whole different place – I will have to save up and put it on the bucket list!