Southern Sicily might be Italy’s most underrated destination
Southern Sicily doesn’t put on a show for you because it doesn’t need to. The beauty here isn’t polished or packaged like some of Italy’s northern towns - it’s a little rough around the edges but that is what makes it such an incredible place to visit.
Our journey south started with a drive out from Catania, immediately escaping the hustle of a larger city.
First stop: Sutera. You can see this town looming from a distance and the village clings to the hillside beneath this looming rock formation, and everything about it feels stripped back.
Sutera from a distance
Driving in, I found myself breathing in, in the hopes that would help our car fit through the narrow alleys!
You walk uphill through narrow lanes, past homes that look lived in rather than styled, and eventually the landscape just opens up and you can see for miles.
The alleys of Sutera are no joke
There’s not a lot to ‘do’ in Sutera, and that’s exactly the point – especially when you visit during lunchtime as we did and there was no one else in the street.
Agrigento, on the other hand, is one of those places where you do need a bit of intent. The Valley of the Temples is undeniably impressive, but it’s also exposed and unforgiving in the heat. Go early or go late, keep it tight, and don’t try to turn it into an all-day affair.
The charming streets of Agrigento
Wandering the town itself, you feel like part of every-day life. We discovered incredible local delis and pockets of charm where we could enjoy a drink.
The sandwich of my dreams
The next stop is the coast, and Scala dei Turchi (Stairs of the Turks) feels almost surreal.
The first thing that catches you is the vibrance – you will definitely need your sunnies here. The limestone is this striking, chalky white that almost glows against the sea. The rock has been worn smooth over time, forming these soft, curved terraces that spill down toward the water. It genuinely feels like something sculpted rather than natural.
Scala dei Turchi
Walking on it is part of the experience. The surface is warm underfoot, almost polished in places, and you find yourself moving slowly without really thinking about it. People tend to spread out along the curves, sitting, lying back, watching the water shift colour as the light changes.
Timing matters here as in recent years, authorities are limiting how many people and when they can visit. Don’t come too late or you will miss out, though you can still swim nearby.
Fun at the Beach Lounge
If you do miss out, or just feel like admiring it from a distance, there are beach lounges like Lounge Beach Scala dei Turchi along the way, and this is the perfect spot for a cooling beverage.
Not far from there, the coastal region of San Leone is a great spot to enjoy sunset. You can walk along the water’s edge or really lean as we did with sundowners as Al Calante.
Al Calante
This is a sunset drinks spot, and it does that exceptionally well. There’s a definite Café del Mar energy to it, but without the pretence. Music drifting in the background, the light softening over the sea, people settling in rather than moving on and families embracing the vibe too.
Sometimes an Aperol is the only answer
You grab a drink, find a spot facing the water, and the whole place just eases into the evening.
After all that exploring, you will want to have a spot to rest your head. We chose somewhere with a water view (because why not?)
Casa Vacanze Il Tucano delivers. It’s relaxed, personal, and far enough from the noise to give you space, but still close to everything you need. Plus, the views and the pool are the perfect reprieve from that hot Sicilian sun.
Casa Vacanze il Tucano
If you prefer beaches over pools, the accommodation is just a short walk from Lido Maddalusa. This is a quiet, more local-feeling stretch of coast just outside Agrigento with calm seas that welcome you for a dip any time of day.
Lido Maddalusa
Leaving the coast again on our drive east, we made another lunchtime stop in Noto. This UNESCO-listed town is undeniably pretty, but it also feels a bit more curated than everywhere else you’ve been.
Noto
All golden Baroque architecture, wide streets, and that honey-coloured glow in the late afternoon. You don’t need long here. We spent a few hours wandering, had some gelato and lunch before moving on again.
Our last stop in Southern Sicily was by far my favourite.
The twin towns of Syracuse and Ortgia aren’t just good looking. Syracuse was once one of the most powerful cities in the entire ancient Greek world. We’re talking on par with Athens at its peak.
A rocky dip on Ortiga
Ortigia is small island at the heart of Syracuse, and you can still feel that layered history when you walk through it. Over time, it’s been shaped by just about everyone who’s passed through Sicily. That’s why Ortigia feels the way it does now. Greek foundations, Roman remnants, Baroque facades, all stacked on top of each other. It’s a place that’s been fought over, rebuilt, and reshaped for nearly 3,000 years.
The relaxed daily life on Ortiga
We stayed in an Airbnb in Syracuse and walked onto the island each day of our visit.
Wandering the tight streets, you will find beautiful squares and then the next corner delivers stunning sea views. It’s a place you can wander without a plan and still fill an entire day.
Sunset on Ortiga
At the far edge on the island of Ortiga sits Castello Maniace, and it’s worth the walk out.
Built in the 13th century under Frederick II, the castle (or more accurately, fortress) was designed to control access to the city and defend one of the most strategically important ports in the Mediterranean.
Castello Maniace
Inside, it’s fairly minimal (don’t expect curated exhibits) but still so interesting to see. You can buy a ticket for around €6.
Southern Sicily isn’t just about ticking boxes. It’s about moments like the unexpected village, the sandwich I dream of finding again, the stunning sunsets that seem to last hours and I can 100 per cent see myself returning here someday…
Sunset in San Leone
A day trip to Comino Island
Chances are, you have seen a picture or two of the Blue Lagoon.
This idyllic lagoon is found on Comino, a little gem of an island belonging to the Maltese archipelago, situated between Malta and Gozo.
It may be small, but it sure is mighty. Think stunning nature, crystal-clear turquoise water and hiking trails with breathtaking views.
Swimming at the Blue Lagoon
We took a day trip there while staying on nearby Gozo. A ferry trip will take you about 15 to 20 minutes and then the day is yours.
My advice is to go early. We just walked down to the ferry terminal in Mgarr Harbour and bought a ticket for the next boat over. Don’t lose your card for the return trip – they are colour-coded based on who you booked through and some of the ferries go back to different parts of Malta.
As soon as you get off the boat, you can’t help but notice this incredibly vibrant blue stretch of water – that’s the Blue Lagoon and it can be tempting to stay here all day but that would be a mistake!
We had packed plenty of water and a sense of adventure and decided to spend our day walking around the island exploring – we could then spend as much time as wanted at the lagoon before heading back to Gozo.
Looking down at the Crystal Lagoon
There are no cars on Comino, but also not really any signposts, so we just followed the paths in the direction we wanted.
The one downside of walking on Comino is that in summer, it was pretty warm and there is no shade on this wild and wonderful island, so we definitely got pretty hot.
Walking in the heat on Comino
Our first stop was the Crystal Lagoon – just a 15 minute stroll around the cliff. Much less visited as most people only come by boat, this lagoon is surrounded by dramatic cliffs, hidden caves and tunnels.
You need to be wearing proper shoes and scramble down the rocks a bit. We did some light snorkelling and explored some caves and tunnels before taking to the cliffs for a couple of rock jumps. I was a bit scared to go from the higher points but Aiden did it in style.
Jumping in style
From here we walked along the dramatic cliff edges towards the Santa Marja Tower. We could only admire this from a distance as it is currently closed.
This tower was built in 1618 to defend the island. It is visible from Gozo island and the ferry. Interestingly, in the 17th century, Comino served as a place of imprisonment or exile for errant knights.
Santa Marja Tower
From here we definitely wanted to explore some more and started to head along the coast towards Elephant Rock. About half way there, we realized it was too hot and we weren’t going to enjoy it so changed course and cut through the middle of island and made Santa Maria Bay our next stop.
The chapel
Passing by a chapel, we emerged to a gorgeous, protected bay for a beer and a swim.
After a refreshing break here, it was time to go back to the start.
Refreshing at Santa Maria Bay
We followed the coastline back and I am pretty sure this isn’t a path and would have been more direct to go back inland but it is an adventure after all!. It would be hard to get lost here but there is an abandoned resort that is fenced off and we had to walk our way inland around that but we made it.
Island views
As we walked back down towards the Blue Lagoon, there are loads of food trucks lining the hill. We picked one for a kebab and a beer and had lunch overlooking the bay.
You can hire chairs and umbrellas on the rocks from the attendants on the beach but that really isn’t our style so we ate perched on a rock – there is no beach here.
The long narrow bay of bright blue water is surrounded by a rocky landscape, but the smooth sand at the bottom of the water make you almost feel like you’re swimming in a pool – albeit a crowded one.
Heading back to the Blue Lagoon
We spied some rocky cave across the lagoon and went to swim for it. The current across the middle of the lagoon was actually kind of intense and then understood the need for the lifeguards.
The cave was cool – riding the swell in and out for a while and then we swam back. At this point, I was starting to feel a little crispy and it was nearly 4pm so we decided to grab the next boat back to Gozo.
Cave swims!
This was not as simple as it sounds! The tiny jetty handles all the boats and ferries heading to and from various parts of Malta and there is no way of knowing which boat is yours until it arrives and someone yells out which colour is to board. Our boat only fit around 10 passengers but it was still so hectic and there were people shoving and pushing – mostly trying to escape the scorching sun. To make matters worse, there is a swimming area there with limited access so that adds another couple of dozen humans to the mix.
Once back on our boat, we had an added 10 minutes of driving around some caves on Comino before zooming across to Gozo. They call this a ‘caves tour’ but there is no commentary from the Capitan and you have no idea where you are, but it was pretty to see from the water what we had seen from the cliffs above.
Rugged island views
Malta’s Gems: Exploring Gozo
Tucked away between Sicily and the North African coast, Malta is the ultimate Mediterranean escape and while small, the country is made up of more than one island.
The islands of Gozo and Comino to the north are hidden gems just waiting to be discovered.
We started our adventure with our bags on board a fast ferry taking us from Valetta to Gozo, docking in Mġarr – this is where we were basing ourselves for the next couple of days.
Elevated pool at Grand Hotel Gozo
The port in Mġarr looks small but busy and charming and I was glad to see some restaurants around, meaning we wouldn’t have to travel for our evening meals.
Having spent a couple of days exploring the cities on the main island of Malta, we didn’t want to be landlocked and felt this was a good base and checked into the Grand Hotel Gozo with views across the harbour.
After arriving, we immediately wanted to get out and explore so we headed for a coastal walk from the port along the cliffs to Gorgun Beach.
Gorgun Beach
I am not sure the word ‘beach’ really applies here but the walk was scenic and hot so there was no way we weren’t swimming.
Shoes are recommended as you make your way down some stairs and across some large and slippery rocks to make your way into the water. The day we were there, there was a bit of swell so had to be super careful getting back out.
The next day was the day to explore further afield. We had booked some a buggy through Gozo Quad Hire for the whole day. We self-drove but you can join a tour as well.
The guys came and picked us up from our hotel first thing in the morning and after a quick briefing, we were on our way.
Our ride for the day
The first stop was Grech’s bakery for a sweet donut and an espresso to fuel us for the day.
We had decided to do a lap of the island starting on the eastern side and heading north. This took us to Hondoq ir-Rummien where we stopped for a look around and enjoyed the view. We were there very early with not many people around and offering crystal clear water, but we were quite ready for a swim yet.
A moody morning at at Hondoq ir-Rummien
Next up, we headed down a winding road to Daħlet Qorrot Beach. I almost don’t want to share this spot because it was magical, and we could have spent all day here.
There were no other tourists, just locals out for their morning walk and swim and a few people learning how to dive.
The most inviting water at Daħlet Qorrot
The word hidden gem gets thrown around a lot, but this beach truly lived up to the phrase. The pebbly cove is surrounded by lush countryside and bordered by carved cliffs resulting in the perfect sheltered bay for swimming and snorkelling. The peace and the quiet here without shops or buildings is unmatched in the Mediterranean.
Rocky views at Daħlet Qorrot
After dragging ourselves out of the sea and on our way, knowing that our buggy maxed out at 50km/h and while small, we wouldn’t make it around the whole island if we dallied too long, we headed for Ramla Beach.
Passing a vineyard on our left and stalls on our right, we headed down a straight, flat road – such a novelty for the island and ended on rich red sand.
The red sand of Rambla Bay
This beach was much more developed and busier than where we had just left so we felt we didn’t need a swim (plus the sand was scorching hot) so walked down for a look and then headed back for a refreshing beer overlooking the calm ocean in front.
By now, I was getting a little hungry, so we pulled up in Marsalforn for some lunch. We opted to find a spot away from the restaurants lining the bay and tucked into some incredible Thai food a couple of streets back.
Long before visiting Malta, I had seen images of Xwejni Bay and the salt pans but nothing prepares you for seeing it in real life.
Selfie at the salt pans
The Xwejni salt pans stretch three kilometres along the coast and have been used for more than 350 years. A salt pan is a shallow reservoir dug out of limestone rock to collect seawater. As the water evaporates, white salt crystals remain. The crystals are then dried and packed into salt pouches – collected about once a month in summer and it is incredible to see it in action.
Salt pans
After exploring here (from a distance as you cannot walk on the pans themselves), we headed to another spot I absolutely had to see for myself - Wied il-Għasri.
Driving down a dirt road and parking wherever we could find a spot out of the way, we headed in the direction of the sea. Before you make it, you can see a fissure in the land ahead.
Wied il-Għasri
Wied il-Għasri resembles a canyon and stretches 300 metres inland to a tiny pebble beach. To get down, you walk down about 100 steps carved into the porous walls of the sandstone.
Like most, we have to stop in awe as the winding bay appears before us on the way down. Towel down and slow stumble to the water’s edge across the soft pebbles (we had no water shoes) and into the clear bay we float.
Over the years, the swirling sea has carved out the sides of the gorge, creating caves and pockets beneath the water's surface. We swim almost to the mouth of the gorge but, feeling the pull of the current on our toes, stay safely away from the wide-open ocean.
After a relaxing swim (although it was quite busy when we visited in peak summer), it was on to what would be our last stop for the day.
Swimming near Dwerja
If you google Gozo, you will probably see images of a rock arch over the sea. Unfortunately, the 28m tall Azure Window collapsed into the ocean in 2017 but this part of the coastline is still spectacular and worth a visit.
In addition to the Inland Sea – a natural sea pool connected to the sea by an 80-m long tunnel – this exposed part of the north-western coastline is dramatic and wild. It was also a filming location for season 1 of Game of Thrones!
Inland sea and cave entrance
We wanted to make a stop at Xlendi Beach and Victoria on the way back to our hotel but we had run out of time needed to return the buggy! We drove slowly through Victoria to get a sense of the city and got back just on closing time and the guys dropped us back to Mġarr so we could refresh and have a cocktail while we relived the day’s highlights.
It is crazy that you can fit so much to see on one tiny island and we didn’t even get to explore it all!
Dinner views in Mġarr
Exploring Langford Reef by helicopter
There is nothing quite like seeing the Whitsundays from above. Even better when you get to land on a strip of sand and snorkel with some turtles.
That is exactly what you get to do on a Langford Reef Snorkelling adventure with HeliReef Whitsunday!
Given we didn’t want to spend a whole day leaving our dog behind but still wanted to see some of the Whitsunday Islands, travel by helicopter seemed like the perfect choice.
Langford Reef is a bit special being that it has its own island which no one on it. Perfect for a private escape. Even more interesting, at high tide, the land sand spit where the helicopter lands, completely disappears.
Not far from the luxurious Hayman Island, Langford is surrounded by fringing reef with good snorkelling off the beach. There are also plenty of small tropical fish and sea grass which attracts sea turtles to the area.
Our adventure started off from Coral Sea Marina as we boarded our helicopter for the short ride out to Langford Island. It was so amazing to see Airlie Beach and the neighbouring islands from above.
Even on a cloudy day, you could still see the reefs below, along with plenty of sailors making the most of the islands.
All we had with us was our towels, a camera and our GoPro! Snorkelling gear and a bottle of bubbly to share were provided by Helireef.
Flying over Langford Island, it was crazy to imagine that we were going to land on the tiny strip of sand attached but our pilot made it seem easy and we had the whole island to ourselves.
At low tide, the sand stretches for several hundred metres. From there you can just walk into a snorkeling wonderland.
Being keen water babies, we were straight into the water with our snorkelling gear and in less than a metre of water we met our first turtle!
Langford’s reef is only relatively small, but it does contain a huge number of small fish species.
The idyllic island would make a perfect spot for a picnic as well if we had longer. Unfortunately our adventure was only for two to three hours including the helicopter ride to and from Airlie Beach.
While the bubbles were supplied, Aiden and I spent all our time in the water and exploring the island so on the sage advice of our pilot, we took it back to our accommodation unopened. It will make a great memory when we enjoy it together and reminisce on our travel fun and underwater escapades.
A day trip to Great Keppel Island
I have visited a lot of Queensland islands in my travels but have focused on those further north in the Whitsundays and the Great Barrier Reef. When it came to planning a dog-friendly holiday, it was a nice surprise to discover that Great Keppel Island welcomes pups – as does the passenger ferry to get there!
We visited on a daytrip from Yeppoon because while the island itself is dog-friendly, finding somewhere to stay there with our furry friend was a little harder.
Great Keppel is just a 30-minute ferry ride from the mainland, so we got on an early ferry to make the most of our day!
The ferry pulls up right on the beach, so sandy feet are the welcome mat. You’ll also be greeted by Fisherman’s Beach which is absolutely gorgeous.
The view looking west from the Lookout Trail.
On arrival at Fisherman’s Beach, we stored our snorkelling gear and decided to stretch our legs with a walk up the Lookout Trail. There are plenty of longer walks around the island but with only a day, we thought we would try just this one which is easily accessible from the beach.
The view looking east from the Lookout Trail.
This 2.6km trail didn’t take us more than an hour and it really isn’t that steep. We were rewarded with great views to the west of Great Keppel Island.
After working up a sweat on this walk, it was time to cool off. We asked where the best snorkelling was at the Water Activities hut and were told to head to Monkey Beach.
Hanging out at Monkey Beach.
The walk to and from here would have taken us about 2 hours – time we didn’t have if we wanted to make the most of being in the water.
Luckily for us, the guys at the hut were super accommodating and took us – including Falcor – in the dive boat around to Monkey Point and promised to pick us up in time to get back on our 4pm ferry. What a treat for a dog that loves boat rides!
Dog boat on the way to Monkey Beach.
Setting up under a tree for some shade, we paddled out from the beach to the reef to admire all the fish! Falcor tried to swim and keep up with us so I headed back to the beach a bit earlier to relax and soak up some sun while Aiden snorkelled longer.
Moody skies at Monkey Beach.
The water was crystal clear and warm so I could have spent hours exploring.
From Monkey Beach, there is a short inland track that takes you to Long Beach – voted one of the best beaches in Australia. We went and had a quick look before Aiden headed around the headland to try his luck at fishing.
Walking down to Long Beach.
There are only certain areas of the island where you can fish as the rest is protected marine park. Unfortunately for us, the tide really wasn’t right for fishing while we were there.
Given we spent the whole day on the beach at the mercy of the dive boat, we made it back to Fisherman’s and managed a beer and a snack at the Great Keppel Island Hideaway before dashing back to the ferry. We timed our return perfectly as a rain cloud opened up just before we returned.
After all that swimming and walking, we had one tired dog on the ferry home!
One tired and sandy beach dog!
Great Keppel has 15 beaches to explore so we only saw a tiny bit of this island paradise. We will have to come back for a longer stay without the dog.
If you are looking for a personal adventure, Get Your Guide offers some great tours from Yeppoon.
The ultimate Magnetic Island escape
When planning a Queensland road trip with my dog, I was so excited to discover we could take the pup on the ferry across to Magnetic Island! What could be better for our water-loving family?
Affectionately known as Maggie, the island is a great place to just kick back and relax but there is also plenty to see and do!
Just eight kilometres off the mainland, this island is smack-bang in the middle of the Great Barrier Reef and boasts palm-fringed beaches, hiking trails and friendly rock wallabies. Holiday vibes sorted!
Getting there:
There are two ferries that will take you out to Maggie. A passenger-only ferry that takes just 20 minutes, and a vehicle ferry that takes about twice the time. We went with our car on the latter from Townsville with our dog able to get some fresh air on board – he loved his first experience on a boat bigger than a tinny!
If you don’t want to take your own car or have flown in from out of town, there are plenty of rentals available on the island and I would recommend having way as it is the best way to get around – though in peak seasons there is an excellent bus service.
The short ferry ride makes it possible to just visit for the day if you are short on time. Just make sure you book the early ferry in advance to make the most of it.
Where to stay:
Maggie has a wide range of accommodation options to choose from. There is everything from dog-friendly Airbnb’s like the one we stayed in to 5-star resorts.
The first choice is actually to decide where on the island you want to be. The main towns are Arcadia, Horseshoe Bay, Nelly Bay, Picnic Bay and Florence Bay and honestly, it really isn’t that far to drive between them but sometimes it is nice to just walk around!
Nelly Bay is where the ferry lands most of the large accommodation can be found here and Horseshoe Bay has plenty of restaurants and cafes and great sunset views.
Picnic Bay
We stayed in Picnic Bay on the southern end of the island, looking back towards the mainland. Our Airbnb was walking distance to a long jetty perfect for fishing, a beach where we could swim and a couple of restaurants. We had some incredible authentic Italian at Mamma Roma and I would definitely recommend you try it!
Things to do:
Walking is a big thing on Maggie and we made the most of it! There were a few walks we didn’t experience on the island as we don’t like to leave the dog at home too much so that meant the National Parks were off the agenda.
There is a walking track that goes from Picnic Bay all the way to Geoffrey Bay along the coast. It doesn’t offer much shade so best to do early morning or late afternoon but you get some incredible views and you can always jump in the water at points along the way if you get hot!
A sample of the epic island views
On the northern end of Geoffrey Bay, there are some large boulders and if you look a bit closer, you will see a whole family of small rock wallabies living there! We didn’t get too close as who knows if they have ever seen a border collie before so we played it safe. They were adorable though and apparently a lot more active around sunset when you can head along with a bag of feed to give them a treat.
Rock Wallabies
We stopped for lunch on the walk back at a fabulous fish and chip shop in Nelly Bay – SOS which translates as “Stuffed on Seafood”. It was a tough decision but landed on a crab sandwich which was stuffed full of crab and tasty sauce.
We came back to Geoffrey Bay later in the trip with the car to try some snorkelling. Make sure you time it with high tide to get the best clarity here. There is a self-guided snorkel trail marked out here that points out remnants of shipwreck and some giant clams. You will see the white floats that outline the trail and stop you from swimming too far out.
You can take a tour that visits places only accessible by water for those super private beach experiences too!
When you are tired from all the active activities, it’s time for some refreshment and my favourite spot on the island for a beer is at the Base Backpackers. The reasons for this are simple – The Island Bar has a massive outdoor area (dog-friendly) and the best ocean views to soak up while drinking. We also came back here for burgers one night at dinner – they were epic!
A beer at Base Backpackers
Aiden was pretty happy to spend late afternoons casting a line off the jetty in Picnic Bay while we watched the sun go down. We left empty handed of course it was a very peaceful way to finish the day.
Picnic Bay Jetty
My favourite day was when we headed to Radical Bay. After scouring the maps and seeing this beach was not National Park and was 4WD access only, we packed the car for a day of adventure and sun and were not disappointed.
Radical Bay all to ourselves
If you don’t have a 4WD, definitely do not attempt to drive to Radical Bay – the track is seriously challenging, and we had a high-clearance vehicle! You can get there by boat and we did see a few intrepid hikers coming across from Horseshoe Bay later in the day but when we arrived, we had the place to ourselves.
Relaxing at Radical Bay
As we pulled up, we were greeted with paradise. Golden sand and clear turquoise tropical water surrounded by large boulder-strewn headlands, the perfect remote location. Falcor was pretty happy and ran straight into the ocean for a swim.
We spent the day swimming, exploring and relaxing. It felt like our own private paradise.
Enjoying Radical Bay
Radical Bay is a Marine National Park Green Zone so no fishing on this day but we did head out with a snorkel, but the water was a bit silty and visibility wasn’t great.
Dinner after a day in the sun was at Thai Again near Nelly Bay. This is the only Thai restaurant on the island and tucked out of the way in a beautiful old building decorated in plenty of fairy lights, first impressions were good. The food delivered and I had one of the best (and most spicy!) Laksa’s I have had in a long time.
Magnetic Island isn’t a bustling metropolis which makes it the perfect spot to sit back, take stock and relax in nature. It was a fabulous dog-friendly escape.
Awesome things to do in Agnes Water & 1770
It has stunning beaches, nearby islands and reefs like Far North Queensland, but it has surf – the last place on the Queensland coast to have it. This is of course Agnes Water and the town of 1770!
This is a small spot on the map where time seems to stand still. It reminded me of beach holidays I had with my family as a kid – a blur of salt, sand and fun.
We spent a week exploring and relaxing and these are our favourite things to do!
Swim at Agnes Beach
The main beach in Agnes Water stretches around 5km and is the perfect spot to swim, surf and explore any time of day. We loved that we could take our pup off leash on the northern end, find a private patch of sand and just relax.
There are plenty of dog friendly beaches in Agnes!
Paperbark Forest Boardwalk
Probably one of the most picturesque – and photographed – spots in the area is the Paperbark Forest Boardwalk.
It’s only a 400m walk through the trees but it feels magical and the stepping stones keeping you from the forest floor is fun for kids and the young at heart!
Visit an Island on the reef
There is usually a tour boat that runs out to Lady Musgrave Island but it wasn’t operating on our visit (next time!) and the fishing charters that also visit were fully booked but there is an alternative.
You can take a stunning scenic flight and spend the day exploring the paradise that is Lady Elliot Island. We were there during turtle mating season and it was absolutely incredible. The day flew by and the flight over the waterways of 1770 on way home just added to the magic.
Flying over the waterways
Watch the sunset at 1770
The Town of 1770 is one of only four places on the east coast where you can see the sun set over the water.
You can find a spot on the beach – but you won’t be alone! We got down there early for a swim and enjoyed the cooler air as the sun dipped over the mountains to the west. It really is a beautiful place to have a cold drink and watch the day end.
Visit Cook’s Monument
You can drive almost all the way to the headland and see the monument that marks the spot where Captain Cook’s crew came ashore in 1770 but you can also enjoy a scenic walk from the 1770 foreshore around the headland.
Taking in several incredible elevated views of Round Hill Creek, the walking track offers multiple opportunities to branch off the track and head down to the water for a secluded fish or swim.
This is also known as the 1770 Butterfly Walk. We didn’t experience it but from March to June, it comes alive with thousands of Blue Tiger Butterflies.
You can continue 350m to reach Bustard Bay Lookout and from here you can enjoy sweeping views to the north and south of 1770.
Explore Eurimbula National Park
Having a 4WD meant that we could tow the boat and have a day in Eurimbula National Park.
Along with sandy tracks, dunes, mangroves and eucalyptus forest and the waterways we spent the day fishing, there was also a nice short hike to Ganoonga Noonga Lookout that was well worth a stop.
It is a short 700m climb but you will be rewards with panoramic views over the eastern lowlands and mountain ranges to the west. As an added bonus, we didn’t see another person in the hour we spent here!
You can camp in the National Park at one of two campgrounds but for me, the midgies would have been too much…
Cruise the waterways
The twin towns of Agnes Water and 1770 are the perfect place to base yourself if you love discovering kilometres of empty beaches, wonderful waterways and stunning national parks.
We put out little boat in the water at 1770 Marina and went exploring through the calm waterways of the inlet.
Even without a boat, you can hire a kayak or a paddle board and experience it all for yourself.
Trek along Red Rock Walking Trail
South of Springs Beach near the headland is the beginning of the 'Red Rock Trail'. This trail is about 2.5 km long and goes past coves and headlands. Keep your eyes out for turtles and dolphins as you take in the scenery.
Eat fish & chips
Surrounded on all sides by plenty of water, it comes as no surprise that fish & chips was a meal we had more than once on our holiday.
There are three fish & chip shops in Agnes Water & 1770 and we tried two of them.
The Rusty Pelican not only has massive, tasty servings but it also has the best location. Situated right on the water, enjoy your meal any time of day – you might even be lucky to get a good spot for one of those epic 1770 sunsets.
Off The Hook Fish & Chips is right in the middle of town and is probably the most value for money takeaway I have ever had. I couldn’t even finish half my fish.
Have a tipple at 1770 Distillery
Just down the road from our accommodation is the boutique 1770 Distillery. After years honing skills in the distilleries of Tasmania, John now turns locally grown fruits into delicious liquers that you can taste and buy.
Devour flavours like Sunset, full of grapefruit, bush lime, and ginger - the perfect accompaniment for quietly watching the sun go down.
We stayed in a great location with our pup that we booked through Gibson’s Pet Friendly Accommodation but there are so many choices in Agnes and 1770 that you will find the spot perfect for you.
Discovering Paradise: Lady Elliot Island
Lady Elliot Island wasn’t in our plans on a recent trip to Agnes Water and 1770 but the wind conspired against us and our boat trip to Lady Musgrave Island was cancelled.
Lady Musgrave Island showing off!
This turned out to be a happy accident a we managed to score a scenic flight over Lady Musgrave on our flight to Lady Elliot Island and ended up with the most perfect day – magical conditions those on the island hadn’t seen in years!
The tiny plane that seats 10 takes off from a dirt strip just basically between Agnes Waters and 1770. I have been on a few small planes like this so let Aiden sit up front and be co-pilot.
Lady Elliot Island is one of the southernmost cays of the Great Barrier Reef and is known for its abundance of sea turtles, manta rays, reef sharks, and spectacular array of other marine species. The scenic flight out took us over Lady Musgrave Island giving us stunning aerial views and a desire to make that boat trip there happen one day!
Coming in to land on Lady Elliot Island.
The landing strip on the island itself is quite literally a strip of grass running the whole length of the island. On one side, is the resort, including rooms, dining areas, the dive shop, locker rooms, the pool and the ‘Lagoon’. On the other side of the landing strip, tucked away in the trees, are the staff accommodations as well as what is known at the ocean side of the island – a coral beach leading out to amazing snorkelling and deeper dive sites.
On the day trip, everything you need is included – a glass bottom boat ride, snorkel gear, reef shoes, a storage locker and lunch! If you want to try a dive it will cost extra but definitely pack the sunscreen because even snorkelling you will spend much of the day in the water. In fact – Aiden and I were rushing from the ocean to get out of our wet swimmers and back on the plane because we were like kids who wouldn’t get out of the ocean.
Small turtle exploring the deep water.
One benefit of the day trip from Agnes Waters is that it is the closet departure point on the mainland, so it means you have the longest time on the island. We arrived at 9.20 in the morning after a half hour flight and left at 4pm.
We spent most of the time ocean side as you can only swim in the lagoon a couple of hours either side of high tide. The shallow waters there so provide some interesting corals and great water colours for photos.
Not even 10 steps away from the beach and the beautiful coral life had already started. It stretched for as far as I could see.
Our visit was just at the start of turtle mating season and we were told we might see a few turtles hanging out in the shallows. A few is an understatement! There were turtles everywhere!
As unreal as it may sound, the experience of floating with the turtle and even going underwater with it for a few brief seconds was an experience of a lifetime. It did feel a little intrusive whenever the currents took us close to the mating turtles though. It was interesting to see one female being followed by several males – nature up close incredible and mystifying.
As well as the turtles, we saw a couple of reef sharks, large coral trout, a school of trevally spiralling and loads of reef fish. It was one of the best snorkelling experiences I have had!
If you end up visiting the Lady Elliot Island between February through to April, you can even experience turtle hatching.
Coming up for air.
It is crazy to think that this island was completely bare until 1970 when trees were planted. On our visit in early October, the birds were coming into nest. When I say birds, I mean thousands and thousands, all looking for a tiny branch to build their home for the next generation. No need to worry about swooping those, these Black Noddys and Bridled Terns were just interested in building and nesting.
Given the different migrating and mating habits of all the marine animals in this area, each season is a different experience. I would love to come back in winter when the resident Manta Rays are visiting.
Leaving paradise for reality.
Visiting Lady Elliot is also a conservation inspiration. It is considered to be one of world’s best examples of marine ecotourism. With the implementation of solar and gas technology and water desalination, this multi award-winning ecotourism destination has committed to sustainable operations on a long-term basis. The Lady Elliot Island Eco Resort has also played a lead role in achieving a ‘Green Zone’ designation for the island and surrounding waters from the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park Authority.
We did the day trip here but would 100 per cent stay the night if we didn’t have to get back to the dog! I can only imagine sunset and sunrise over those reefs.

