Allison Wallace 3/17/26 Allison Wallace 3/17/26

Southern Sicily might be Italy’s most underrated destination

Southern Sicily doesn’t put on a show for you because it doesn’t need to. The beauty here isn’t polished or packaged like some of Italy’s northern towns - it’s a little rough around the edges but that is what makes it such an incredible place to visit.

Our journey south started with a drive out from Catania, immediately escaping the hustle of a larger city.

First stop: Sutera. You can see this town looming from a distance and the village clings to the hillside beneath this looming rock formation, and everything about it feels stripped back.

Driving in, I found myself breathing in, in the hopes that would help our car fit through the narrow alleys!

You walk uphill through narrow lanes, past homes that look lived in rather than styled, and eventually the landscape just opens up and you can see for miles.

There’s not a lot to ‘do’ in Sutera, and that’s exactly the point – especially when you visit during lunchtime as we did and there was no one else in the street.

Agrigento, on the other hand, is one of those places where you do need a bit of intent. The Valley of the Temples is undeniably impressive, but it’s also exposed and unforgiving in the heat. Go early or go late, keep it tight, and don’t try to turn it into an all-day affair.

Wandering the town itself, you feel like part of every-day life. We discovered incredible local delis and pockets of charm where we could enjoy a drink.

The next stop is the coast, and Scala dei Turchi (Stairs of the Turks) feels almost surreal.

The first thing that catches you is the vibrance – you will definitely need your sunnies here. The limestone is this striking, chalky white that almost glows against the sea. The rock has been worn smooth over time, forming these soft, curved terraces that spill down toward the water. It genuinely feels like something sculpted rather than natural.

Walking on it is part of the experience. The surface is warm underfoot, almost polished in places, and you find yourself moving slowly without really thinking about it. People tend to spread out along the curves, sitting, lying back, watching the water shift colour as the light changes.

Timing matters here as in recent years, authorities are limiting how many people and when they can visit. Don’t come too late or you will miss out, though you can still swim nearby.

If you do miss out, or just feel like admiring it from a distance, there are beach lounges like Lounge Beach Scala dei Turchi along the way, and this is the perfect spot for a cooling beverage.

Not far from there, the coastal region of San Leone is a great spot to enjoy sunset. You can walk along the water’s edge or really lean as we did with sundowners as Al Calante.

This is a sunset drinks spot, and it does that exceptionally well. There’s a definite Café del Mar energy to it, but without the pretence. Music drifting in the background, the light softening over the sea, people settling in rather than moving on and families embracing the vibe too.

You grab a drink, find a spot facing the water, and the whole place just eases into the evening.

After all that exploring, you will want to have a spot to rest your head. We chose somewhere with a water view (because why not?)

Casa Vacanze Il Tucano delivers. It’s relaxed, personal, and far enough from the noise to give you space, but still close to everything you need. Plus, the views and the pool are the perfect reprieve from that hot Sicilian sun.

If you prefer beaches over pools, the accommodation is just a short walk from Lido Maddalusa. This is a quiet, more local-feeling stretch of coast just outside Agrigento with calm seas that welcome you for a dip any time of day.

Leaving the coast again on our drive east, we made another lunchtime stop in Noto. This UNESCO-listed town is undeniably pretty, but it also feels a bit more curated than everywhere else you’ve been.

All golden Baroque architecture, wide streets, and that honey-coloured glow in the late afternoon. You don’t need long here. We spent a few hours wandering, had some gelato and lunch before moving on again.

Our last stop in Southern Sicily was by far my favourite.

The twin towns of Syracuse and Ortgia aren’t just good looking. Syracuse was once one of the most powerful cities in the entire ancient Greek world. We’re talking on par with Athens at its peak.

Ortigia is small island at the heart of Syracuse, and you can still feel that layered history when you walk through it. Over time, it’s been shaped by just about everyone who’s passed through Sicily. That’s why Ortigia feels the way it does now. Greek foundations, Roman remnants, Baroque facades, all stacked on top of each other. It’s a place that’s been fought over, rebuilt, and reshaped for nearly 3,000 years.

We stayed in an Airbnb in Syracuse and walked onto the island each day of our visit.

Wandering the tight streets, you will find beautiful squares and then the next corner delivers stunning sea views. It’s a place you can wander without a plan and still fill an entire day.

At the far edge on the island of Ortiga sits Castello Maniace, and it’s worth the walk out.

Built in the 13th century under Frederick II, the castle (or more accurately, fortress) was designed to control access to the city and defend one of the most strategically important ports in the Mediterranean.

Inside, it’s fairly minimal (don’t expect curated exhibits) but still so interesting to see. You can buy a ticket for around €6.

Southern Sicily isn’t just about ticking boxes. It’s about moments like the unexpected village, the sandwich I dream of finding again, the stunning sunsets that seem to last hours and I can 100 per cent see myself returning here someday…

Allison Wallace 2/16/26 Allison Wallace 2/16/26

Epic views and wild roads: an adventure in Ella’s mountains

A trip to the mountainous centre of Sri Lanka in Ella is always going to dish up epic views – but sometimes they don’t come without a little effort!

We arrived on the iconic train from Nuwara Eliya as the light was starting to fade, unprepared for the chaos of drivers touting for our business. In hindsight, we should have booked a transfer to our accommodation, but we didn’t realise what the roads in these mountains were like and everything looks much closer on a map…

We booked a driver through the popular Pick Me app that could fit three people and our luggage, and it all started well as we climbed higher in the mountains. As we got closer to Awesome Place (our accommodation), the road became dirt, full of potholes, and quite literally on the edge of a cliff.

Our driver was naturally cautious and after he got out to check the size of some of the holes in the dark, I am pretty sure my eyes were closed for the last, very bouncy section of our trip.

It was all worth it and for all remaining trips to and from Awesome Place, we used drivers from the villa!

Awesome Place may only be 10km from the train station, but it can take about 40 minutes to travel the distance. The pay off is, the views from this 3-villa boutique stay are epic, and the staff could not be more accommodating. With only three rooms, it also never felt busy and we always got the best spot to enjoy coffee with the sunrise.

It was an incredible place to start your day with coffee and breakfast overlooking lush mountains and finish it with a swim or a drink by the pool that looks like it is sitting on the edge of the world.

Being in the mountains always makes me want to climb to the top of them, so that is exactly what we did. We could see Ella Rock from our pool so started early one morning with a drive down to the starting point at Kithaella Railway Station.

From the station, you cross the train tracks and then head across a small creek before actually getting to the official trail head. We attempted to make our way up on our own from there with instructions from blogs but the paths around here can be a bit confusing and there is definitely more than one way up!

We took a few wrong turns, ended up on someone’s backyard but managed to gain a guide to lead us all the way to the top from here.

The trail starts easily enough through some tea plantations but before long, I felt like I was hiking at home through eucalypts! It is through here that the path gets a little steeper (and sweatier).

Coming out of the bush, you will reach a clearing at the top of Ella Rock. Here, you will see a small hut, with wooden fencing around it. This is where you will need to pay a small fee to access the viewpoint above. It is totally worth it.

There are two viewpoints from the top. The first looks out over Ella and the railway, the second is about 10 minutes around and you can see incredible waterfalls from here. We probably spent close to an hour just enjoying the views (and catching our breath) before heading back down.

On the way back down, I managed to pick a few leeches on the way trying to get into my shoes through my shoelace holes. Thankfully, they were quite easy to flick off but something to look out for!

Instead of getting a drive back to Ella town, we decided to walk the extra 5km along the railway tracks which seems crazy for a westerner but is very common and we saw a few other locals doing the same.

It took about 40 minutes but was very hot with limited shade so make sure you keep enough water and sunscreen. All up our trip up Ella Rock took about four and an half hours.

We wandered around town and had a bite to eat before heading to our cooking class at Ella Spice Garden.

This is hands down the best cooking class I have ever done and Theeka is so friendly, personable and funny. Plus, the vegan food we made was amazing.

It starts with a guided tour of the spice garden so you can see all the ingredients you will be cooking with. You then get to make seven dishes that are so layered with flavour that I have tried to re-create it at home.

On our last day in Ella, we started to head up Little Adam’s Peak but it was raining quite heavily and we could see after a couple of kilometres that it was quite touristy and the views from the top would not be any better than those we had at our accommodation.

Our final stop on the way out of town was to check out Ravana Waterfall. These epic falls are literally on the side of the road which does make them very busy and surrounded by stalls selling fresh fruit and grilled corn. Perfect for a snack enroute to our next destination.

Allison Wallace 6/2/25 Allison Wallace 6/2/25

A taste of Etna’s legacy: Volcanic wines at Barone di Villagrande

Nestled on the eastern slopes of Mount Etna, where ancient vines cling to volcanic soil and clouds dance with smoke from the crater above, you will find one of the oldest vineyards in the volcanic area of Sicily - Barone di Villagrande.

The laid back arrival at Barone di Villagrande

This historic winery is a family-run estate with centuries of winemaking tradition. The vineyard was officially founded in 1727 when the current owner’s ancestor, Don Carmelo Nicolosi was given the title of Baron of Villagrande. The vineyards have been cultivated by the same family ever since.

After arriving through the winding roads up the mountain, ash piled up where it has floated down from the famous volcano above, the views at Barone di Villagrande take your breath away. You can see the Ionian Sea shimmering in the distance, framed by the dark, fertile slopes of Etna. The vineyards cascade down the hillsides, orderly yet wild.

There are two options to taste wine here and in typical Sicilian style, neither of them are fast!

You can indulge in a full four-course lunch with your tastings, or as we did, opt for finger foods to match the wines.

Both are guided tastings starting with a visit to the ancient cellars on the estate and include the opportunity to try the dishes of the Etnean kitchen paired with the wines. Menus are entirely seasonal, but they do cater to dietaries.

Our host, charming and unhurried, began the tasting with a full glass of the Salina Bianco and left us to enjoy it. We sipped slowly, enjoying sitting in the warm outdoors and the light breeze on a hot summer day.

The wines that followed were the Etna Bianco (my favourite), the Etna Rosso, made from Nerello Mascalese. Pale garnet in color, it looked almost too delicate for its earthy aroma.

The finish we had a sweet wine, the Malvasia which matched our snacks perfectly.

All in all we spent at least two hours enjoying one of the oldest vineyards on an active (very active) volcano. We spent a little time in the shop on our way out, buying a couple of bottles of the Etna Bianco and some olive oil to enjoy on our travels.

Barone di Villagrande isn’t just a winery. It’s a quiet slice of paradise where history and love of good food and wine come together. It’s worth a visit.

If you wanted to linger a little longer, you can stay right here on the estate – there is even and outdoor pool overlooking the mountain vines.

Allison Wallace 5/8/25 Allison Wallace 5/8/25

Finding the quiet heart of the Amalfi Coast at Domus Claudia

When most people think of the Amalfi Coast, their minds jump straight to Positano or Amalfi. But let me let you in on a little secret: Atrani is where the real magic happens. One of Italy’s smallest villages is tucked between dramatic cliffs and the glittering Tyrrhenian Sea, this tiny town is the quiet gem of the Amalfi Coast - and I found my own slice of heaven at Domus Claudia Airbnb.

I fell in love with Atrani before I even unpacked my suitcase, despite the stairs to get to our room. And honestly? I think it had a lot to do with how wonderfully, blissfully quiet it is. While Positano dazzles with her glam and Amalfi buzzes with boats and gelato-chasing crowds, Atrani feels like the calm, sun-drenched little sister - leaning back against the cliffs, totally unbothered, sipping a spritz in the shade.

And nestled right into this serene slice of the Amalfi Coast is where we stayed: Domus Claudia.

We booked the King Room with a sea view, and let me tell you, those views did NOT disappoint. From the moment we opened the shutters, we were met with a watercolour-worthy scene of deep blue ocean boats and cliffs. Mornings here? A salty breeze with the hint of espresso. Nights? Moonlight dancing on the water, the whole town hushed like it’s sharing a secret.

The room here was massive in size and decorated in beautiful cool tiles, and you get your own private bathroom too. The owner even provided a chilled beer on arrival which was amazing after lugging our bags up the stairs.

But there’s even more to enjoy: the rooftop terrace which is where we enjoyed our cold beers. I swear it’s one of the best-kept secrets on the coast. A magical little perch above it all - ideal for morning yoga (if you're that kind of person), golden hour Aperol spritzes (if you're my kind of person), or just pretending you’re in a movie.

Now, if you’ve ever been to the Amalfi Coast in peak season (or just seen some photos of those packed beaches), you know the drill - crowds, lines, narrow roads full of scooters and honking cars. Atrani? It’s like stepping into a postcard that forgot to invite the tourists. You can stroll from the quiet beach to the piazza in 30 seconds, and if you time it right, you’ll find yourself the only one wandering those quiet cobbled alleys. We loved our quiet mornings here swimming before breakfast and an espresso.

Views in another direction from our room at Domus Claudia

We used Atrani as our home base for four nights and walked to Amalfi in about 10 minutes (yes, really). There is a pedestrian tunnel that connects the two towns, meaning ferries to other parts of the Amalfi Coast are super accessible.

After exploring Amalfi or hiking the Path of the Gods, we’d return to Domus Claudia, slip off our shoes, and exhale into that sweet, salty quiet.

If you’re looking for the perfect blend of sun, sea, and serenity, skip the crowds and stay in Atrani. And if you want a place that feels like your very own Amalfi fairytale - Domus Claudia is it. Just don’t tell too many people. Let’s keep this little dream between us, okay?

Allison Wallace 8/21/22 Allison Wallace 8/21/22

A wintery escape to Merlot Mountain Haven

You know we are always on the look out for dog-friendly places to stay and a winter escape to wine country in the Granite Belt had our name all over it, so we were excited to discover a whole house with literal acres of land for our floof at Merlot Mountain Haven.

Less than 10 minutes south of Stanthorpe itself, this house truly is a haven. From the keyless entry to the wood-burning fireplace, and a kitchen stocked with all the necessities, you may never want to leave!

To get to the house, you head along a dirt road, jump out to open the gate and continue to almost complete privacy. The way in is well signposted and marked with solar lights so you won’t get lost either.

The country house itself is three bedrooms, but those not in use for your booking are locked off. The best bit? Up to four dogs can stay per booking with no size restrictions. For our 25kg ball of fluff, this is a welcome surprise.

In terms of being dog-friendly, it doesn’t get much better than this. Dogs are allowed inside, just not on the beds or furniture, plus there’s a securely fenced yard and a fenced paddock for them to run amok to their heart’s delight. Dog beds, bowls, towels and plenty of treats are supplied.

We discovered the pond on the property as soon as we arrived with Falcor the water pup making a beeline and going for a swim! A quick hose off and a towel and he was almost good as new.

Humans are treated just as well with local Washpool bath products, plenty of tea and condiments supplied in the kitchen and a Nespresso coffee machine for those cold early mornings! You could quite easily have all your meals here too with a great bbq out on the deck.

If you can’t wait for the fire to heat up the house, both the lounge and the main bedroom have reverse-cycle aircon that will warm you up in no time.

The master bedroom has an ensuite with heated lamps that were very welcome on the nights that got down to 2-degrees while we visited.

For relaxing after a hard day of wine-tasting, there is a TV with several streaming services ready to go or enjoy the large clawfoot bath in the main bathroom to really wind down.

There's even a small piano situated in the living room if you are musically inclined.

If you want to get out and explore, owners Lance and Marylin have put together a book with all the dog-friendly cafes, restaurants and walks.

This place just opened up for bookings at the end of 2021, and we are so glad it did. I am pretty sure we will be back again – maybe when it is a little warmer and the apples are on the trees.

Allison Wallace 1/19/22 Allison Wallace 1/19/22

8 things you must experience at Carnarvon Gorge

If you are looking for a place the literally feels out of this world, Carnarvon Gorge is it.

Carnarvon Gorge is truly a spectacular place, and you need more than a couple of days to truly take in all the beauty and appreciate the ancient landscapes.

In the gorge, the “bush” of Australia’s arid interior meets the lush jungle of the wet coastal tropics – a mind-blowing juxtaposition.

Aside from the timing exploring, it will take you some time to get there! Carnarvon National Park is about an 8-hour drive from Brisbane.

We drove up from the Sunshine Coast, taking the trip through Roma on the way there – making an essential stop for treats and coffee at Goomeri Bakery – and looped back via Rolleston to the north for a change of scenery. The journey was half the fun and we stopped for a hot lunch and a game of pool at the quirky Hotel Cracow on our way home.

Here are our 8-must-see adventures on your visit to Carnarvon National Park:

1. The Moss Garden

Most of the highlights in the gorge are side-trails that generally require some up-hill or stairs. Given we had our packs to camp at Big Bend before walking back out the next day, we left them at the turn off to save some energy and appreciate as much as we could. The main walk is just shy of 20km if you don’t do any of the side trails – which would be a mistake in our opinion!

The Moss Garden is the first side trail off to the left as you walk along the Canarvon Great Walk. You walk up a decent staircase to get there but about halfway up you can feel the temperature drop and the air becomes fresher.

When you get to the top, it is incredibly lush and green with loads of fern trees and a boardwalk right up to a small waterfall. You can see the moss on the rocks that gives this area its name.

2. The Amphitheatre

This was our second stop on day one, and it was probably my favourite. It is here, after heading through a deep gash in the gorge, that you will get the best views of the signature towering sandstone cliffs.

You will head up a steep but safe staircase but the climb is worth it, as you’ll be standing beneath 60-metre yellow sandstone walls, two million years in the making. There are some seats at the top where you can sit and really soak in the wonder.

3. The Art Gallery

A place steeped in history. There are more than 2000 engravings, ochre stencils and freehand paintings decorating the 62m-long sandstone walls of the Art Gallery. A site of deep cultural significance to Indigenous people, the local Bidjara and Karingal groups. You can learn about the meaning of the art as you walk along the boardwalk that runs along with it.

4. Camping overnight at Big Bend

Another highlight of this adventure. There are only 10 campsites at Big Bend so you will need to book in advance to make sure you get a spot. This also means there won’t be many people around when the sun sets! There were only six of the sites occupied when we stayed, and it was magical.

Big Bend is at the end of the main gorge walking track and most day-hikers turn around before they even make it there. We almost got lost after the main track ended on our way here – so you need to keep a keen eye out for the small orange markers on rocks highlighting the way to go.

There is a natural (very cold) waterhole with beautiful sandstone walls which was the perfect spot to wash off the day’s work and refresh our muscles.

There is a toilet at the campground and a picnic table which was nice as we hadn’t carried any chairs with us – the tent and water was heavy enough!

It’s actually the first camping area for those doing the 5-day Carnarvon Great Walk and we had a good chat with some through-hikers – maybe that will be another adventure!

5. Ward’s Canyon

Ward’s Canyon was our first detour on the walk out with fresh legs. A short flight of steps takes you 200m up into a little side gorge, where a small waterfall trickles down the rock wall.

Along with being one of the few places you can see the world’s largest fern, the king fern Angiopteris evecta, you’ll notice a rusty tinge in the water as you make your way into the cool gorge. This amazing hue is red algae.

6. Boolimba Bluff

This short hike is not for the faint of heart! We tackled this the day after our overnight camping trip, but the effort was worth the reward!

We had heard the best time to see the views from the top of the bluff was at sunrise so we got up at 4am, grabbed our head torches and headed back into the gorge in the dark and I am so glad we did.

The Boolimba Bluff just briefly starts on the main gorge track, but quickly detours into an extreme number of stairs which never seem to end – there is even a sign telling you there is a steep ascent ahead but don’t let that deter you. The views are amazing at 200 metres above the gorge floor, but we recommend you dress warmly as you wait for the sun to come up.

It was great to do this 7km return trip after our adventure in the gorge as it gives you an amazing perspective on where you hiked before.

7. Mickey Creek Gorge & Warrumbah Bluff

Well outside the gorge itself, there are still incredible sights to see. The day before heading on our overnight hike, we biked around and headed into Mickey Creek and Warrumbah Bluff.

It starts off as a level path leading through the bush, then it is not long before the track narrows and becomes steeper, at times climbing up the creek bank and then crossing to the other side.

There’s a well-worn path beyond it, following the creek further into the bush – we could only go so far without submerging our feet.

After heading up to Mickey Creek, do yourself a favour and take the fork in the road down the track to Warrumbah Creek Gorge.

You will find more of a scramble than a hike but walking over moss covered rocks and climbing makeshift log ladders just adds to the sense of adventure as you go deeper into a narrowing gorge. This was one of my favourite experiences of the trip.

8. A swim in the Rock Pools

There are only a couple of places you can swim in the National Park and the Rock Pools is one of them.

A short 400m walk (over rocks so wear shoes!) will take you to a deep pool that is the perfect spot to cool off in after biking and hiking.

You will need to be prepared for this water to be ICY.

Bonus tip: After hiking up Boolimba Bluff first thing in the morning, we decided to give our legs a rest but still wanted to see more. We managed to get a last-minute afternoon spot on a 20-minute scenic helicopter flight over the gorge and it was the best idea ever!

The helicopter doesn’t actually fly over Carnarvon Gorge itself (not allowed by Parks and Wildlife) but seeing the surrounding landscapes was incredible.

Our friendly pilot pointed out various rock formations including the Magnificent Three Sisters and deep narrow gorges filled with tropical plants before heading back to land in the blink of an eye.

Where to stay: We stayed at Takarakka Bush Resort (now known as BIG4 Breeze Holiday Parks Carnarvon Gorge), camping in a larger tent and leaving it all set up while we walked with our light-weight hiking tent into the gorge.

The resort is about 3km from the entry to the Great Walk and has all the amenities you could want. There are also plenty of kitchen and BBQ shelters available so you don’t need to travel with all your cooking gear and it is nice to meet up with people preparing meals and sitting around a campfire.

There is also a creek that runs behind the resort. Apparently you might be able to spot a platypus here but we weren’t that lucky but we did manage to get a refreshing dip at the ‘beach’ end far from where the elusive creatures call home.

The hot showers are welcome on tired legs after days in the gorge too.

There is also a short walk from the camp grounds up to a lookout that is great for sunset. Take a drink and soak in the serenity!

On our last night, we even headed to the Bush Bar for a pre-booked communal roast dinner which capped of a great escape. Not sure if they still do this now it has converted to a BIG4.

Best time to visit: Summer would be a no-go! Aside from the heat, the Gorge itself floods during the wet season and can be closed. We went in mid-September and the daytime temperatures were in the 30s and the nights were cool.

Allison Wallace 8/22/21 Allison Wallace 8/22/21

The ultimate Magnetic Island escape

When planning a Queensland road trip with my dog, I was so excited to discover we could take the pup on the ferry across to Magnetic Island! What could be better for our water-loving family?

Affectionately known as Maggie, the island is a great place to just kick back and relax but there is also plenty to see and do!

Just eight kilometres off the mainland, this island is smack-bang in the middle of the Great Barrier Reef and boasts palm-fringed beaches, hiking trails and friendly rock wallabies. Holiday vibes sorted!

Getting there:

There are two ferries that will take you out to Maggie. A passenger-only ferry that takes just 20 minutes, and a vehicle ferry that takes about twice the time. We went with our car on the latter from Townsville with our dog able to get some fresh air on board – he loved his first experience on a boat bigger than a tinny!

If you don’t want to take your own car or have flown in from out of town, there are plenty of rentals available on the island and I would recommend having way as it is the best way to get around – though in peak seasons there is an excellent bus service.

The short ferry ride makes it possible to just visit for the day if you are short on time. Just make sure you book the early ferry in advance to make the most of it.

Where to stay:

Maggie has a wide range of accommodation options to choose from. There is everything from dog-friendly Airbnb’s like the one we stayed in to 5-star resorts.

The first choice is actually to decide where on the island you want to be. The main towns are Arcadia, Horseshoe Bay, Nelly Bay, Picnic Bay and Florence Bay and honestly, it really isn’t that far to drive between them but sometimes it is nice to just walk around!

Nelly Bay is where the ferry lands most of the large accommodation can be found here and Horseshoe Bay has plenty of restaurants and cafes and great sunset views.

We stayed in Picnic Bay on the southern end of the island, looking back towards the mainland. Our Airbnb was walking distance to a long jetty perfect for fishing, a beach where we could swim and a couple of restaurants. We had some incredible authentic Italian at Mamma Roma and I would definitely recommend you try it!

Things to do:

Walking is a big thing on Maggie and we made the most of it! There were a few walks we didn’t experience on the island as we don’t like to leave the dog at home too much so that meant the National Parks were off the agenda.

There is a walking track that goes from Picnic Bay all the way to Geoffrey Bay along the coast. It doesn’t offer much shade so best to do early morning or late afternoon but you get some incredible views and you can always jump in the water at points along the way if you get hot!

On the northern end of Geoffrey Bay, there are some large boulders and if you look a bit closer, you will see a whole family of small rock wallabies living there! We didn’t get too close as who knows if they have ever seen a border collie before so we played it safe. They were adorable though and apparently a lot more active around sunset when you can head along with a bag of feed to give them a treat.

We stopped for lunch on the walk back at a fabulous fish and chip shop in Nelly Bay – SOS which translates as “Stuffed on Seafood”. It was a tough decision but landed on a crab sandwich which was stuffed full of crab and tasty sauce.

We came back to Geoffrey Bay later in the trip with the car to try some snorkelling. Make sure you time it with high tide to get the best clarity here. There is a self-guided snorkel trail marked out here that points out remnants of shipwreck and some giant clams. You will see the white floats that outline the trail and stop you from swimming too far out.

You can take a tour that visits places only accessible by water for those super private beach experiences too!

When you are tired from all the active activities, it’s time for some refreshment and my favourite spot on the island for a beer is at the Base Backpackers. The reasons for this are simple – The Island Bar has a massive outdoor area (dog-friendly) and the best ocean views to soak up while drinking. We also came back here for burgers one night at dinner – they were epic!

Aiden was pretty happy to spend late afternoons casting a line off the jetty in Picnic Bay while we watched the sun go down. We left empty handed of course it was a very peaceful way to finish the day.

My favourite day was when we headed to Radical Bay. After scouring the maps and seeing this beach was not National Park and was 4WD access only, we packed the car for a day of adventure and sun and were not disappointed.

If you don’t have a 4WD, definitely do not attempt to drive to Radical Bay – the track is seriously challenging, and we had a high-clearance vehicle! You can get there by boat and we did see a few intrepid hikers coming across from Horseshoe Bay later in the day but when we arrived, we had the place to ourselves.

As we pulled up, we were greeted with paradise. Golden sand and clear turquoise tropical water surrounded by large boulder-strewn headlands, the perfect remote location. Falcor was pretty happy and ran straight into the ocean for a swim.

We spent the day swimming, exploring and relaxing. It felt like our own private paradise.

Radical Bay is a Marine National Park Green Zone so no fishing on this day but we did head out with a snorkel, but the water was a bit silty and visibility wasn’t great.

Dinner after a day in the sun was at Thai Again near Nelly Bay. This is the only Thai restaurant on the island and tucked out of the way in a beautiful old building decorated in plenty of fairy lights, first impressions were good. The food delivered and I had one of the best (and most spicy!) Laksa’s I have had in a long time.

Magnetic Island isn’t a bustling metropolis which makes it the perfect spot to sit back, take stock and relax in nature. It was a fabulous dog-friendly escape.

Allison Wallace 8/3/21 Allison Wallace 8/3/21

Discover remote luxury at Gilberton Outback Retreat

When you think of a remote cattle station, luxury isn’t the first thing that comes to mind but that is exactly what you are going to get at Gilberton Outback Retreat.

In the heart of the Queensland Outback, about six hours drive west of Townsville, Gilberton is a huge working cattle station. It’s a dusty drive in but welcome you receive when you get there makes it all worth it.

If you’re not keen to drive so far or prefer to visit during the wet season, when roads are often cut, helicopter charters are available.

Home to around 1200 head of Brahmin cattle and an incredibly deluxe cabin that owners Lyn and Rob built from stone from the property. Each rock was chosen specifically and this level of detail shows. Appreciate the large pieces of granite, sandstone, quartz, ironbark, ironwood and lancewood that make up the bones of this ‘hut,’ as Lyn referred to it!

Out here there’s no phone, no television and no Wi-Fi, just uninterrupted views of the Gilberton River and the company of the family at the homestead where dinner is served.

The retreat open to the elements and is decked out with a king bed and a luxurious bathtub. Don't worry, there's no one around to see you - the retreat only hosts two people at a time meaning you can enjoy the uninterrupted panoramic views from the outdoor bath without feeling self-conscious.

There are small, interesting details throughout the retreat that really tell a story. The soap caddy in the open shower is made from an old horseshoe, the base of the table where we ate breakfast is and old singer sewing machine and the pedal is well-oiled and still works.

Lyn and Rob and have thought of everything. There is a welcome platter of cheese and snacks, the fridge is full stocked with beer, wine and champers, you will find toiletries in the bathroom should you have forgotten something and a coffee pot for your morning fix.

While open to the elements and Queensland nights in May get cool – we were thrilled to discover the most plush, warm doona I have ever seen on the bed. Not once did I feel cold which is no mean feat.

After sharing a home cooked meal at the homestead with the family, we settled in for a sound sleep on our first night here, listening to the sounds of the outback as we dozed off.

Gilberton Station started in 1869 and has been passed down through seven generations, this family know every inch of their property and it is such a privilege that they share it with you!

Visitors here can make the experience all their own. Relax, get involved in station life, explore indigenous rock art on the property or fossick for gold around an old mine.

Incredible art that survives the elements and time.

On our first morning, Lyn takes us on a buggy drive and a short 350m hike to an Aboriginal rock art site. More than 30,000 years ago, the Ewamian, Jana and Woolgar peoples walked this land and Lyn works hard to make sure it remains untouched, apparently never taking the same route to the spot.

We sit under a cave ledge that protects the etchings with billy tea and baked morning tea, admiring the art and artefacts that you can see all around you.

On our drive back through the station, we checked on the cow ‘nursery’ as there were many new calves hanging out with their mums.

After a relaxed lunch, we headed out with one of the prospectors staying on the property to see if we could find some gold. Armed with metal detectors and a positive attitude we found two small pieces in about three hours so won’t be quitting our day jobs just yet.

It was fun to give it a go through, I am pretty sure Aiden has gold fever and wants to keep searching but Falcor and I were ready to go back and relax.

We return to the retreat and I unwind in the free-standing tub, chilled champagne on call from a slightly unwilling Aiden. In the changing light of dusk, the sky moved through every mood.

The day wasn’t over as we wandered over the hill to enjoy a firepit BBQ with the family and some prospectors who are also staying on the station. Good food, good wine, good company and a seemingly endless canopy of stars and I can see myself spending a lot more time here!

Several hours later, the full moon guided us on the short walk back to the retreat for another sound sleep.

Our final morning has arrived and I want to soak up every last second in this retreat. We enjoy breakfast made from the hamper in the fridge (eggs, cheese, ham and fruit) looking over the river and play with Falcor before jumping in the car for the long drive to Townsville.

Beyond the natural beauty and the one-of-a-kind accommodation, the main thing I am taking with me is the time with our hosts, Lyn and Rob. They opened not only their station, but their home to visitors and there is a connection to the land here that is unbreakable.

You will hear fascinating stories and conversations about floods, droughts, mining stories and even a fire that destroyed the original family homestead.

The guys here have done everything they can to protect the land and environment for future generations, not something that comes to mind when you remember you are on a cattle station, but this is so much more than that.

As well as receiving a Nature Tourism certification, the retreat is carbon neutral and solar powered – as is the whole farm. All the food you eat during your all-inclusive stay is sourced from local producers and a sustainable garden on site.

As we leave all I can think of is visiting in the wet season to see the river brimming and wildlife teeming. I imagine it would be like visiting a whole different place – I will have to save up and put it on the bucket list!