A solo summit of Ben Nevis, Scotland
Hiking to the top of the highest mountain in Britain in one day? Sure, why not! Do it alone, even more of a challenge!
Spending a week solo in Scotland, I wanted to get some hiking of that epic scenery under my belt. As I travelled around and mentioned to locals that I was planning on heading up Ben Nevis – alone – they seemed determined to persuade me it was a bad idea. Nevertheless, I was determined.
The main concern is that for most of the year, the peak isn’t even visible from the ground and the people have literally just walked off the edge because the visibility was so bad.
I lucked out though. For my entire week in Scotland, the sun was shining, and skies were clear – perfect September conditions.
By world standards, Ben Nevis isn’t that imposing. Standing at just 1,345 metres (4,409 ft), the mountain would be dwarfed by many but that doesn’t make it any less work.
One of those reasons is that you start the hike pretty much at sea level and you have to go up and down in one day. Even with perfect conditions, the blustery wind at the top means you don’t want to stick around too long.
Guides estimate that it takes between 7 and 9 hours to complete the 18km round trip. My advice, hit somewhere in the middle, the down portion at the top is nowhere as easy as I imagined it would be.
I was staying nearby in Ballachulish but still got up before brekkie was served and headed for the starting off point near Fort William.
Find your perfect Scottish stay here.
There were a few people around the start of the hike which was great so I didn’t feel all alone. The walk itself start off relatively easily along a pony trail among lush green farmland. The air was misty but as the path ascended, the mist cleared and there were plenty of reasons to stop, take in the views and take photos.
About 90 minutes into the hike, the trail passed Lochan Meall an t-Suidhe (also known as the ‘Halfway Lochan’). The water here is so pure that a one of the oldest licensed distilleries in Scotland – Ben Nevis - source water for their Scotch from two lochans situated 3,000 feet up the north face of the mountain.
Several hours into the hike, the path becomes increasingly stony and you definitely have to watch your footing. Near here you also cross a small waterfall which I imagine after snow or melting snow is not so small at all!
As I climbed it became ever colder, luckily I was well prepared with several layers. The path for the last hour isn't really a path… it's more like a convenient rockslide!
The last stretch to the summit really is the hardest and I can see why in bad weather this is not a great hike. I had perfect conditions and could only just see the trail as a slightly different colour of the rock.
The views during the trek were sensational and between these and the walking you couldn't help but be left breathless.
When you do reach the top. it seems as if half of Scotland is spread before on a clear day – from the mountains of Skye in the northwest to the Cairngorms in the east.
The top of the mountain is relatively flat with cairns (piles of rocks) marking the way across and away from the very steep cliffs below. Peering over some of the edges, there were even remnants of snowbanks at the end of September! You really would need to be mindful of weather changes up here.
I stopped at the top for about 20 minutes for a snack and some photos. It was way too cold to sit still for too long.
The first part of the descent was actually harder than going up in my opinion. The rocky scree and decline meant that I felt like I was squatting for about an hour!
The change from rock to path was a welcome one and I think I trotted the last hour back to my car.
I highly recommend a good pair of hiking boots for this day hike and the right layers for the conditions as it can quickly change. I am so glad I managed this hike, even if I couldn’t walk properly for a day afterwards!
Before heading back to my hotel for a hot bath I stopped in for a beer in Fort William and something warm to eat. It is a small but very welcoming Scottish town and I wish I could have stayed a bit longer.
Koala Park: A surprise oasis in Nambour
I am constantly on the hunt for new walks in the bush that I can take with my pup so I was excited to discover Koala Park in Nambour.
Just a stone’s throw from the bustling main street of Nambour, a sixteen-hectare eucalypt bushland known as Koala Park.
There are a couple of tracks that loop around – the main recreation path that is about 1km long and a second loop that branches off down to the lower street level and follows a steep stairway as you journey back to the recreation loop. I think I tracked our total distance at 1.5km doing the extra stairs.
Dogs are allowed here but they do have to be on a leash. Falcor loved having so many new smells to inspect.
There is plenty of bird life in the park and their chirping is pretty much all you can hear as you explore the area – as well as the panting and sniffing of the dog…
I have visited twice and barely seen another human. Unfortunately, I have also not spied any shy koalas hiding in the gum trees. That won’t stop me looking on every visit.
The walk requires you to loop back up to the entrance, which includes plenty of steep stairs guaranteed to make you sweat!
This is a great place for a short walk that also gets the heart rate up. The added bonus
Afterwards if you are so inclined, there is a picnic table and bbq and children’s play area by the entrance to relax in or you could head into Nambour and check out the local cafes.
It is so nice not to have to travel far to think you are in the middle of the bush.
Checking out the ultra-cool Calile Hotel
James Street in Brisbane has been adding cool and upmarket shops for years but the new hotel on the block sets a whole new standard.
A recent mid-week stay at The Calile Hotel was like staying in an oasis from the city! Even just walking through the lobby and admiring the pool shows the place is dripping with Insta-worthy backdrops.
Seriously, areas of this hotel transport you straight from Brisbane to California with swaying palm trees, a serious pool scene, top notch food and rooms in a dreamy pastel pink, beige and gold palette. You could imagine yourself in Palm Springs for sure.
On getting to the Calile, the lobby was busy but check-in staff – in fact all staff here – were friendly, smiling and efficient. This is probably one of the nicest hotel arrival experiences I have ever had in Australia. Despite being well ahead of check-in time, the room was ready, and our bags were whisked upstairs.
The pool area is gorgeous, and it is strange to think that we are in the heart of Brisbane. I found myself lusting over the mint striped umbrellas as we ordered a spritz to embrace the afternoon sun.
Hellenika restaurant is located on the pool level, and you can order off their poolside menu whilst lounging about on their deck chairs or cabanas (order the zucchini chips – trust me – they’re highly addictive).
Due to external dinner plans, I didn’t have a chance to test the rest of the menu, but rest assured I will be back poolside here in the future.
Up in our refreshingly minimalist and neutral room, the bathrooms are a sanctuary from the city with robes, slippers, and Grown Alchemist products.
There’s no traditional wardrobe here. All your clothes hang on an open rail over a long wooden bench where you can leave your bag open. It’s great to have enough space for two bags – especially when travelling with a girlfriend. This also makes it less likely that I will leave that spare dress in the closed wardrobe on my visits.
The large window lets in a lot of light but if you are a light sleeper, there’s an automatic blind for darkness and sun protection with controls right beside the bed. It was so effective; I was very confused when I woke up in darkness.
Don’t want to leave the room for a cocktail? No worries, you will find a pre-mixed negroni, martini, manhattan or old fashioned from Everleigh Bottling Co. in the mini bar. Tepid tap water isn’t for you either? In every room there's a carafe and glasses and on every floor, there is filtered water tap.
When you do leave, you won’t have that hotel hallway aircon freeze, the floor corridors are all open and naturally ventilated.
I didn’t have a chance to check out the Kailo spa or the gym on this trip, but I hear good things. The spa is the only one in Queensland to carry iconic French skincare range Biologique Recherche.
If you can be tempted from the day bed or lured from the pool, the Fortitude Valley neighbourhood that surrounds the hotel is a treasure trove of independent shops and art galleries. You will even score discounts at stores using your ‘friends of the Calile’ card you receive on check-in – bonus!
Be warned, this much effortless cool comes with a price tag. The Calile Hotel is probably one of the most expensive in the city. We scored a special deal with a midweek rate to make this an affordable experience and fantastic little mini break.
Paddling the Noosa Everglades
Picture this: still water that looks like a mirror and the only sounds are the birdlife and your paddle breaking the surface as you glide along.
You don’t have to imagine it because this is the very real experience of kayaking through the Noosa Everglades.
It is amazing to think that there are only two Everglade systems in the whole world and one of them is right in our backyard here on the Sunshine Coast. It may not sound that exciting but over 40 per cent of Australia’s bird species can be found in the Noosa Everglades! Unlike the Florida Everglades, there are no alligators cruising the waters here.
The unique ecosystem offers up a tranquil experience of being disconnected from anything but nature as you paddle along the river.
Our experience started out by meeting Rob from Lake Escapades near Boreen Point for a safety briefing and gathering of maps before we headed off to put our hired kayaks in the water for the day.
A calm start across Lake Cootharaba
The paddle starts crossing Lake Cootharaba to Kinaba Information Centre. We had perfect conditions with almost no wind for our adventure and just stopped at the centre for a quick snack and to use the bathroom after just over an hour of paddling. There are raised boardwalks here to stretch the legs on a short walk – just pack the bug spray!
Kinaba is the entrance to the more narrow waterways of the Noosa Everglades, and after a slight miscalculation on direction we soon found ourselves in a serene, silent environment. This minor detour made us feel safe as Rob kits out the kayaks with a GPS tracker and texted us to let us know that we had veered just a little off course.
Kinaba Information Centre
The kayaks are actually sea kayaks, so you are able to steer using foot pedals and a rudder at the back of the kayak. They also have ample storage in dry areas for our picnic supplies and cameras for a day trip.
The further you head upstream, the more narrow the river becomes and the more intense the reflections in the water from the overhanging trees. It is a magical experience.
We made our way to our halfway point at Harrys Hut – about 10km. You can access this point by 4WD and I would love to come back and put some kayaks in here to go further into the river. There is a campground and lots of people around. If you wanted to, you could organise camping here or even further in and stay for a night or two. It would be amazing to wake up to the birdsong and first light on the river.
After a dip in the tannin-infused river that looks like flat coca cola – and many flips off the jetty into the water – we sat down to enjoy our lunch.
The sun was beating down pretty hard on our kayak day, so we stopped for another swim on the way back at Fig Tree Point. There is a little beach here that is perfect to paddle from.
All too soon it was time to paddle back to Boreen Point. The reflections seemed even more intense on the trip back until we reached the river mouth at Lake Cootharaba. The wind has picked up and it was a much slower trip across the lake with chop pushing against us. No being a regular kayaker, my arms were definitely feeling the effort.
This was an adventure that needs repeating and I can’t wait to go back in a different season to see if anything has changed.
Taking the waters at The Gainsborough Bath Spa
About five years ago now, with one spare night before her Cotwolds wedding, I had the extreme pleasure of taking my soon-to-be-wed friend and another girlfriend for a relaxing night of decadence at the then newly-opened Gainsborough Bath Spa.
The Gainsborough Bath Spa occupies two historic buildings with distinguished Georgian and Victorian façades. Named after the artist, Thomas Gainsborough, the hotel is designed to be welcoming, elegant, vibrant and social and upon arrival it managed to exceed any expectations…
The name Bath conjures up the idea of healing waters and a visit to the mineral rich waters. For guests at this hotel, you don’t even need to leave the grounds as the on-site spa does just that.
Tapping into the original baths, which are fed by natural thermal waters from the aquifer that lies beneath the city - the newly built bathing atrium is so stunning that the Romans would have marvelled at its beauty.
There is even an exact replica of the floor mosaic that was found during construction as you wait near the treatment rooms.
Taking the waters was once a cure-all for whatever ailed you, and while medical science has come a long way since then, a long soak in a warm pool is still a nice way to pass the time.
There are three natural thermal pools of varying temperatures , traditional and infrared saunas, a steam room and a scented ice alcove.
You will feel truly royal as access to the spa area is private for guests and those booked for additional spa treatments. We had the area completely to ourselves on our visit.
You will be treated like royalty as soon as you walk through the doors at Gainsborough Bath Spa. This hotel is fit for a queen (or three!) and has all the ingredients for the perfect relaxing break. Pampering at the spa village, an indulgent afternoon tea, a chic cocktail bar, delectable dining and the comfiest rooms and beds. You will want for nothing, except maybe another night or two to stay.
Our rooms (yes, rooms) featured high ceilings, muted honey and blue-grey furnishings and one of the most comfortable beds I have ever slept in.
The large marble bathrooms have in-floor heating for those cold English mornings and the selection of Asprey toiletries are more decadent that most.
Did I mention the mini-bar is also complimentary
Already relaxed? Indulge even further with a drink at the bar. They have an extensive gin palace menu which made my heart sing.
The staff at the Gainsborough bar go the extra mile to make sure you have a great time. Pick your poison and mention any flavours you like or dislike and they will whip up a cocktail to your taste. Perfection!
Across the hall from the bar is the restaurant. At the time of my visit, it was run by world-renowned chef, Johann Lafer. His 'Dining without Borders' gourmet philosophy is based on using fresh and locally sourced produce to create truly innovative dishes that will please even the fussiest of diners.
I am still dreaming about the soy-glazed pork belly entrée of our three-course meal but on checking the most up to date news, the dining is now headed by Dan Moon.
Breakfast is also served here in the restaurant and I can guarantee you won’t walk away hungry.
This hotel is 100 per cent a treat and if you are wanting to indulge when the world is back up an running, run towards The Gainsborough Bath Spa!
The public Roman Baths and Bath Abbey are only 100 metres from the hotel for the history buffs to explore. The main shopping strip is just beyond that if you need to get anything or just want to explore the boutiques.
If you walk just a bit further, you will get to the Royal Crescent – A sweep of 30 Grade I-listed houses that was completed in 1774. No 1 is now a museum which recreates 18th-century life.
Awesome things to do in Agnes Water & 1770
It has stunning beaches, nearby islands and reefs like Far North Queensland, but it has surf – the last place on the Queensland coast to have it. This is of course Agnes Water and the town of 1770!
This is a small spot on the map where time seems to stand still. It reminded me of beach holidays I had with my family as a kid – a blur of salt, sand and fun.
We spent a week exploring and relaxing and these are our favourite things to do!
Swim at Agnes Beach
The main beach in Agnes Water stretches around 5km and is the perfect spot to swim, surf and explore any time of day. We loved that we could take our pup off leash on the northern end, find a private patch of sand and just relax.
There are plenty of dog friendly beaches in Agnes!
Paperbark Forest Boardwalk
Probably one of the most picturesque – and photographed – spots in the area is the Paperbark Forest Boardwalk.
It’s only a 400m walk through the trees but it feels magical and the stepping stones keeping you from the forest floor is fun for kids and the young at heart!
Visit an Island on the reef
There is usually a tour boat that runs out to Lady Musgrave Island but it wasn’t operating on our visit (next time!) and the fishing charters that also visit were fully booked but there is an alternative.
You can take a stunning scenic flight and spend the day exploring the paradise that is Lady Elliot Island. We were there during turtle mating season and it was absolutely incredible. The day flew by and the flight over the waterways of 1770 on way home just added to the magic.
Flying over the waterways
Watch the sunset at 1770
The Town of 1770 is one of only four places on the east coast where you can see the sun set over the water.
You can find a spot on the beach – but you won’t be alone! We got down there early for a swim and enjoyed the cooler air as the sun dipped over the mountains to the west. It really is a beautiful place to have a cold drink and watch the day end.
Visit Cook’s Monument
You can drive almost all the way to the headland and see the monument that marks the spot where Captain Cook’s crew came ashore in 1770 but you can also enjoy a scenic walk from the 1770 foreshore around the headland.
Taking in several incredible elevated views of Round Hill Creek, the walking track offers multiple opportunities to branch off the track and head down to the water for a secluded fish or swim.
This is also known as the 1770 Butterfly Walk. We didn’t experience it but from March to June, it comes alive with thousands of Blue Tiger Butterflies.
You can continue 350m to reach Bustard Bay Lookout and from here you can enjoy sweeping views to the north and south of 1770.
Explore Eurimbula National Park
Having a 4WD meant that we could tow the boat and have a day in Eurimbula National Park.
Along with sandy tracks, dunes, mangroves and eucalyptus forest and the waterways we spent the day fishing, there was also a nice short hike to Ganoonga Noonga Lookout that was well worth a stop.
It is a short 700m climb but you will be rewards with panoramic views over the eastern lowlands and mountain ranges to the west. As an added bonus, we didn’t see another person in the hour we spent here!
You can camp in the National Park at one of two campgrounds but for me, the midgies would have been too much…
Cruise the waterways
The twin towns of Agnes Water and 1770 are the perfect place to base yourself if you love discovering kilometres of empty beaches, wonderful waterways and stunning national parks.
We put out little boat in the water at 1770 Marina and went exploring through the calm waterways of the inlet.
Even without a boat, you can hire a kayak or a paddle board and experience it all for yourself.
Trek along Red Rock Walking Trail
South of Springs Beach near the headland is the beginning of the 'Red Rock Trail'. This trail is about 2.5 km long and goes past coves and headlands. Keep your eyes out for turtles and dolphins as you take in the scenery.
Eat fish & chips
Surrounded on all sides by plenty of water, it comes as no surprise that fish & chips was a meal we had more than once on our holiday.
There are three fish & chip shops in Agnes Water & 1770 and we tried two of them.
The Rusty Pelican not only has massive, tasty servings but it also has the best location. Situated right on the water, enjoy your meal any time of day – you might even be lucky to get a good spot for one of those epic 1770 sunsets.
Off The Hook Fish & Chips is right in the middle of town and is probably the most value for money takeaway I have ever had. I couldn’t even finish half my fish.
Have a tipple at 1770 Distillery
Just down the road from our accommodation is the boutique 1770 Distillery. After years honing skills in the distilleries of Tasmania, John now turns locally grown fruits into delicious liquers that you can taste and buy.
Devour flavours like Sunset, full of grapefruit, bush lime, and ginger - the perfect accompaniment for quietly watching the sun go down.
We stayed in a great location with our pup that we booked through Gibson’s Pet Friendly Accommodation but there are so many choices in Agnes and 1770 that you will find the spot perfect for you.
Dog-friendly bliss at Paperbark Couples Retreat
In the year that saw us all stay home, we spent a week nearby in Agnes Waters for a necessary change of scenery.
Leaving the dog at home was not an option so we chose to stay at Gibson’s Pet Friendly Accommodation and were lucky enough to book the week at their Paperbark Couples Retreat.
Down a long driveway away from any hustle and bustle, this spot was the perfect dog-friendly escape in Agnes Waters (near 1770) for both us and our very busy border collie!
The property itself is small but located on seven acres of land with a dam that our dog was jumping into within minutes of the car doors being open. The place is fully fenced so we were not at all worried about him exploring on his own.
He may have sniffed every paperbark tree he could find but he had a blast and was comfortable enough for him to stay alone every now and then – which for our anxious pup is saying a lot.
He even got to celebrate his 2nd birthday on the property - with extra special treats of course.
With the dog occupied we could spend some time enjoying the human-friendly parts of the retreat.
Inside there is aircon if you want it, a single bedroom and a bathroom and a fully-contained kitchen but outside is where the relaxing happens.
There is a big deck on two sides of the building with epic views of the night sky, a hammock and a fully functioning bathtub that definitely got a workout!
Below the deck is a firepit with bench seats where we toasted marshmallows and watched the stars. There is also a grate for the firepit where we cooked Portuguese chicken one night for the extra authenticity. You will find plenty of kindling and firewood ready to be collected on the property.
The owners of this spot have thought of everything, from dog bowls to a small kennel on the deck for the furry family members to books and DVDs and a handy guidebook to all the activities (both dog-friendly and not) in the area for the humans.
The Paperbark Retreat is just a five-minute drive from Agnes Water, and tucked away for 100 per cent privacy and we didn’t want to leave.
Paperbark Couples Retreat is perfect for a dog-friendly escape in Queensland and has set the standard for future adventures with our pup.
Discovering Paradise: Lady Elliot Island
Lady Elliot Island wasn’t in our plans on a recent trip to Agnes Water and 1770 but the wind conspired against us and our boat trip to Lady Musgrave Island was cancelled.
Lady Musgrave Island showing off!
This turned out to be a happy accident a we managed to score a scenic flight over Lady Musgrave on our flight to Lady Elliot Island and ended up with the most perfect day – magical conditions those on the island hadn’t seen in years!
The tiny plane that seats 10 takes off from a dirt strip just basically between Agnes Waters and 1770. I have been on a few small planes like this so let Aiden sit up front and be co-pilot.
Lady Elliot Island is one of the southernmost cays of the Great Barrier Reef and is known for its abundance of sea turtles, manta rays, reef sharks, and spectacular array of other marine species. The scenic flight out took us over Lady Musgrave Island giving us stunning aerial views and a desire to make that boat trip there happen one day!
Coming in to land on Lady Elliot Island.
The landing strip on the island itself is quite literally a strip of grass running the whole length of the island. On one side, is the resort, including rooms, dining areas, the dive shop, locker rooms, the pool and the ‘Lagoon’. On the other side of the landing strip, tucked away in the trees, are the staff accommodations as well as what is known at the ocean side of the island – a coral beach leading out to amazing snorkelling and deeper dive sites.
On the day trip, everything you need is included – a glass bottom boat ride, snorkel gear, reef shoes, a storage locker and lunch! If you want to try a dive it will cost extra but definitely pack the sunscreen because even snorkelling you will spend much of the day in the water. In fact – Aiden and I were rushing from the ocean to get out of our wet swimmers and back on the plane because we were like kids who wouldn’t get out of the ocean.
Small turtle exploring the deep water.
One benefit of the day trip from Agnes Waters is that it is the closet departure point on the mainland, so it means you have the longest time on the island. We arrived at 9.20 in the morning after a half hour flight and left at 4pm.
We spent most of the time ocean side as you can only swim in the lagoon a couple of hours either side of high tide. The shallow waters there so provide some interesting corals and great water colours for photos.
Not even 10 steps away from the beach and the beautiful coral life had already started. It stretched for as far as I could see.
Our visit was just at the start of turtle mating season and we were told we might see a few turtles hanging out in the shallows. A few is an understatement! There were turtles everywhere!
As unreal as it may sound, the experience of floating with the turtle and even going underwater with it for a few brief seconds was an experience of a lifetime. It did feel a little intrusive whenever the currents took us close to the mating turtles though. It was interesting to see one female being followed by several males – nature up close incredible and mystifying.
As well as the turtles, we saw a couple of reef sharks, large coral trout, a school of trevally spiralling and loads of reef fish. It was one of the best snorkelling experiences I have had!
If you end up visiting the Lady Elliot Island between February through to April, you can even experience turtle hatching.
Coming up for air.
It is crazy to think that this island was completely bare until 1970 when trees were planted. On our visit in early October, the birds were coming into nest. When I say birds, I mean thousands and thousands, all looking for a tiny branch to build their home for the next generation. No need to worry about swooping those, these Black Noddys and Bridled Terns were just interested in building and nesting.
Given the different migrating and mating habits of all the marine animals in this area, each season is a different experience. I would love to come back in winter when the resident Manta Rays are visiting.
Leaving paradise for reality.
Visiting Lady Elliot is also a conservation inspiration. It is considered to be one of world’s best examples of marine ecotourism. With the implementation of solar and gas technology and water desalination, this multi award-winning ecotourism destination has committed to sustainable operations on a long-term basis. The Lady Elliot Island Eco Resort has also played a lead role in achieving a ‘Green Zone’ designation for the island and surrounding waters from the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park Authority.
We did the day trip here but would 100 per cent stay the night if we didn’t have to get back to the dog! I can only imagine sunset and sunrise over those reefs.