Places to Stay, Beyond Allison Wallace Places to Stay, Beyond Allison Wallace

Checking out the ultra-cool Calile Hotel

James Street in Brisbane has been adding cool and upmarket shops for years but the new hotel on the block sets a whole new standard.

A recent mid-week stay at The Calile Hotel was like staying in an oasis from the city! Even just walking through the lobby and admiring the pool shows the place is dripping with Insta-worthy backdrops.

Seriously, areas of this hotel transport you straight from Brisbane to California with swaying palm trees, a serious pool scene, top notch food and rooms in a dreamy pastel pink, beige and gold palette. You could imagine yourself in Palm Springs for sure.

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On getting to the Calile, the lobby was busy but check-in staff – in fact all staff here – were friendly, smiling and efficient. This is probably one of the nicest hotel arrival experiences I have ever had in Australia. Despite being well ahead of check-in time, the room was ready, and our bags were whisked upstairs.

The pool area is gorgeous, and it is strange to think that we are in the heart of Brisbane. I found myself lusting over the mint striped umbrellas as we ordered a spritz to embrace the afternoon sun.

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Hellenika restaurant is located on the pool level, and you can order off their poolside menu whilst lounging about on their deck chairs or cabanas (order the zucchini chips – trust me – they’re highly addictive).

Due to external dinner plans, I didn’t have a chance to test the rest of the menu, but rest assured I will be back poolside here in the future.

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Up in our refreshingly minimalist and neutral room, the bathrooms are a sanctuary from the city with robes, slippers, and Grown Alchemist products.

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There’s no traditional wardrobe here. All your clothes hang on an open rail over a long wooden bench where you can leave your bag open.  It’s great to have enough space for two bags – especially when travelling with a girlfriend. This also makes it less likely that I will leave that spare dress in the closed wardrobe on my visits.

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The large window lets in a lot of light but if you are a light sleeper, there’s an automatic blind for darkness and sun protection with controls right beside the bed. It was so effective; I was very confused when I woke up in darkness.

Don’t want to leave the room for a cocktail? No worries, you will find a pre-mixed negroni, martini, manhattan or old fashioned from Everleigh Bottling Co. in the mini bar. Tepid tap water isn’t for you either? In every room there's a carafe and glasses and on every floor, there is filtered water tap.

When you do leave, you won’t have that hotel hallway aircon freeze, the floor corridors are all open and naturally ventilated.

I didn’t have a chance to check out the Kailo spa or the gym on this trip, but I hear good things. The spa is the only one in Queensland to carry iconic French skincare range Biologique Recherche.

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If you can be tempted from the day bed or lured from the pool, the Fortitude Valley neighbourhood that surrounds the hotel is a treasure trove of independent shops and art galleries. You will even score discounts at stores using your ‘friends of the Calile’ card you receive on check-in – bonus!

Be warned, this much effortless cool comes with a price tag. The Calile Hotel is probably one of the most expensive in the city. We scored a special deal with a midweek rate to make this an affordable experience and fantastic little mini break.

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Taking the waters at The Gainsborough Bath Spa

About five years ago now, with one spare night before her Cotwolds wedding, I had the extreme pleasure of taking my soon-to-be-wed friend and another girlfriend for a relaxing night of decadence at the then newly-opened Gainsborough Bath Spa.

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The Gainsborough Bath Spa occupies two historic buildings with distinguished Georgian and Victorian façades. Named after the artist, Thomas Gainsborough, the hotel is designed to be welcoming, elegant, vibrant and social and upon arrival it managed to exceed any expectations…

The name Bath conjures up the idea of healing waters and a visit to the mineral rich waters. For guests at this hotel, you don’t even need to leave the grounds as the on-site spa does just that.

Tapping into the original baths, which are fed by natural thermal waters from the aquifer that lies beneath the city - the newly built bathing atrium is so stunning that the Romans would have marvelled at its beauty.

There is even an exact replica of the floor mosaic that was found during construction as you wait near the treatment rooms.

Taking the waters was once a cure-all for whatever ailed you, and while medical science has come a long way since then, a long soak in a warm pool is still a nice way to pass the time.

There are three natural thermal pools of varying temperatures , traditional and infrared saunas, a steam room and a scented ice alcove.

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You will feel truly royal as access to the spa area is private for guests and those booked for additional spa treatments. We had the area completely to ourselves on our visit.

You will be treated like royalty as soon as you walk through the doors at Gainsborough Bath Spa. This hotel is fit for a queen (or three!) and has all the ingredients for the perfect relaxing break. Pampering at the spa village, an indulgent afternoon tea, a chic cocktail bar, delectable dining and the comfiest rooms and beds. You will want for nothing, except maybe another night or two to stay.

Our rooms (yes, rooms) featured high ceilings, muted honey and blue-grey furnishings and one of the most comfortable beds I have ever slept in.

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The large marble bathrooms have in-floor heating for those cold English mornings and the selection of Asprey toiletries are more decadent that most.

Did I mention the mini-bar is also complimentary

Already relaxed? Indulge even further with a drink at the bar. They have an extensive gin palace menu which made my heart sing.

The staff at the Gainsborough bar go the extra mile to make sure you have a great time. Pick your poison and mention any flavours you like or dislike and they will whip up a cocktail to your taste. Perfection!

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Across the hall from the bar is the restaurant. At the time of my visit, it was run by world-renowned chef, Johann Lafer. His 'Dining without Borders' gourmet philosophy is based on using fresh and locally sourced produce to create truly innovative dishes that will please even the fussiest of diners.

I am still dreaming about the soy-glazed pork belly entrée of our three-course meal but on checking the most up to date news, the dining is now headed by Dan Moon.

Breakfast is also served here in the restaurant and I can guarantee you won’t walk away hungry.

This hotel is 100 per cent a treat and if you are wanting to indulge when the world is back up an running, run towards The Gainsborough Bath Spa!

The public Roman Baths and Bath Abbey are only 100 metres from the hotel for the history buffs to explore. The main shopping strip is just beyond that if you need to get anything or just want to explore the boutiques.

If you walk just a bit further, you will get to the Royal Crescent – A sweep of 30 Grade I-listed houses that was completed in 1774. No 1 is now a museum which recreates 18th-century life.

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Dog-friendly bliss at Paperbark Couples Retreat

In the year that saw us all stay home, we spent a week nearby in Agnes Waters for a necessary change of scenery.

Leaving the dog at home was not an option so we chose to stay at Gibson’s Pet Friendly Accommodation and were lucky enough to book the week at their Paperbark Couples Retreat.

Down a long driveway away from any hustle and bustle, this spot was the perfect dog-friendly escape in Agnes Waters (near 1770) for both us and our very busy border collie!

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The property itself is small but located on seven acres of land with a dam that our dog was jumping into within minutes of the car doors being open. The place is fully fenced so we were not at all worried about him exploring on his own.

He may have sniffed every paperbark tree he could find but he had a blast and was comfortable enough for him to stay alone every now and then – which for our anxious pup is saying a lot.

He even got to celebrate his 2nd birthday on the property - with extra special treats of course.

With the dog occupied we could spend some time enjoying the human-friendly parts of the retreat.

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Inside there is aircon if you want it, a single bedroom and a bathroom and a fully-contained kitchen but outside is where the relaxing happens.

There is a big deck on two sides of the building with epic views of the night sky, a hammock and a fully functioning bathtub that definitely got a workout!

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Below the deck is a firepit with bench seats where we toasted marshmallows and watched the stars. There is also a grate for the firepit where we cooked Portuguese chicken one night for the extra authenticity. You will find plenty of kindling and firewood ready to be collected on the property.

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The owners of this spot have thought of everything, from dog bowls to a small kennel on the deck for the furry family members to books and DVDs and a handy guidebook to all the activities (both dog-friendly and not) in the area for the humans.

The Paperbark Retreat is just a five-minute drive from Agnes Water, and tucked away for 100 per cent privacy and we didn’t want to leave.

Paperbark Couples Retreat is perfect for a dog-friendly escape in Queensland and has set the standard for future adventures with our pup.

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Discovering Paradise: Lady Elliot Island

Lady Elliot Island wasn’t in our plans on a recent trip to Agnes Water and 1770 but the wind conspired against us and our boat trip to Lady Musgrave Island was cancelled.

Lady Musgrave Island showing off!

Lady Musgrave Island showing off!

This turned out to be a happy accident a we managed to score a scenic flight over Lady Musgrave on our flight to Lady Elliot Island and ended up with the most perfect day – magical conditions those on the island hadn’t seen in years!

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The tiny plane that seats 10 takes off from a dirt strip just basically between Agnes Waters and 1770. I have been on a few small planes like this so let Aiden sit up front and be co-pilot.

Lady Elliot Island is one of the southernmost cays of the Great Barrier Reef and is known for its abundance of sea turtles, manta rays, reef sharks, and spectacular array of other marine species. The scenic flight out took us over Lady Musgrave Island giving us stunning aerial views and a desire to make that boat trip there happen one day!

Coming in to land on Lady Elliot Island.

Coming in to land on Lady Elliot Island.

The landing strip on the island itself is quite literally a strip of grass running the whole length of the island. On one side, is the resort, including rooms, dining areas, the dive shop, locker rooms, the pool and the ‘Lagoon’. On the other side of the landing strip, tucked away in the trees, are the staff accommodations as well as what is known at the ocean side of the island – a coral beach leading out to amazing snorkelling and deeper dive sites.

On the day trip, everything you need is included – a glass bottom boat ride, snorkel gear, reef shoes, a storage locker and lunch! If you want to try a dive it will cost extra but definitely pack the sunscreen because even snorkelling you will spend much of the day in the water. In fact – Aiden and I were rushing from the ocean to get out of our wet swimmers and back on the plane because we were like kids who wouldn’t get out of the ocean.

Small turtle exploring the deep water.

Small turtle exploring the deep water.

One benefit of the day trip from Agnes Waters is that it is the closet departure point on the mainland, so it means you have the longest time on the island. We arrived at 9.20 in the morning after a half hour flight and left at 4pm.

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We spent most of the time ocean side as you can only swim in the lagoon a couple of hours either side of high tide. The shallow waters there so provide some interesting corals and great water colours for photos.

Not even 10 steps away from the beach and the beautiful coral life had already started. It stretched for as far as I could see.

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Our visit was just at the start of turtle mating season and we were told we might see a few turtles hanging out in the shallows. A few is an understatement! There were turtles everywhere!

As unreal as it may sound, the experience of floating with the turtle and even going underwater with it for a few brief seconds was an experience of a lifetime. It did feel a little intrusive whenever the currents took us close to the mating turtles though. It was interesting to see one female being followed by several males – nature up close incredible and mystifying.

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As well as the turtles, we saw a couple of reef sharks, large coral trout, a school of trevally spiralling and loads of reef fish. It was one of the best snorkelling experiences I have had!

If you end up visiting the Lady Elliot Island between February through to April, you can even experience turtle hatching.

Coming up for air.

Coming up for air.

It is crazy to think that this island was completely bare until 1970 when trees were planted. On our visit in early October, the birds were coming into nest. When I say birds, I mean thousands and thousands, all looking for a tiny branch to build their home for the next generation. No need to worry about swooping those, these Black Noddys and Bridled Terns were just interested in building and nesting.

Given the different migrating and mating habits of all the marine animals in this area, each season is a different experience. I would love to come back in winter when the resident Manta Rays are visiting.

Leaving paradise for reality.

Leaving paradise for reality.

Visiting Lady Elliot is also a conservation inspiration. It is considered to be one of world’s best examples of marine ecotourism. With the implementation of solar and gas technology and water desalination, this multi award-winning ecotourism destination has committed to sustainable operations on a long-term basis.  The Lady Elliot Island Eco Resort has also played a lead role in achieving a ‘Green Zone’ designation for the island and surrounding waters from the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park Authority.

We did the day trip here but would 100 per cent stay the night if we didn’t have to get back to the dog! I can only imagine sunset and sunrise over those reefs.

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Soaking up San Pedro de Atacama

After the cold winds and high altitude of the Bolivian Salt Flats, the desert heat of the haven that is San Pedro de Atacama was very welcome.

We hadn’t booked anywhere to stay yet but managed to find a hostel pretty easily when we got off

the bus. The walls of the hotels were made of mud and that made the rooms quite cool even through there was no air-conditioning.

San Pedro was once a mining town, but has now become a base for travellers who want to explore the area. We spent two nights here enjoying the rustic environment of dirt roads and mud-brick buildings.

There are a lot of tours you can do from here to explore the region but as we had just come from the Salt Flats and were nearing the end of our trip – the budget was pretty tight so we enjoyed a few chilled out days. Our first stop after showering was to get an ice cream and enjoy not feeling cold for the first time since Cusco!

This volcano is a constant backdrop to San Pedro

This volcano is a constant backdrop to San Pedro

San Pedro de Atacama is not a big town but there are some nice things to see like the Plaza de San Pedro de Atacama, the church and the meteorite museum. There are nice coffee shops and restaurants in the town where you can chill out – which is exactly what we did.

One of the highlights is the gorgeous church near the main square – painted a stark white that contrasts with the rest of the town.

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As soon as you get out of San Pedro, there is a strong feeling that you are in the middle of nowhere. Here was my very first experience of what it really feels like to be in a desert. Incredible landscapes but nothing around, no buildings, no power lines, no trees! Just the natural beauty of the place.

Once of my favourite memories of San Pedro is sitting around eating empanadas the size of my head. I became so addicted to this food that I still make various versions of it at home 10 years later.

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If there’s one thing you do here, it’s to peruse the markets. There are amazing shops lining the streets of town and a bigger artisanal market near the bus station.

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Because the town is full of backpackers and travellers, San Pedro definitely has a bit of a nightlife buzz. On our first night here, we had a few drinks well into the night around a fire pit with some other travellers and it was so much fun!

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The days are desert-warm but the nights were still quite cool though so when we headed out to the conservatory in the middle of the night, we had to rug up!

After a long relaxing dinner and a good dose of Chilean Cab Sav, our one and only tour from San Pedro started at almost mightnight. We were headed an hour into the desert to an incredible conservatory to see the unpolluted night sky through telescopes and with the naked eye.

On arrival to the designated stargazing spot, we were provided with blankets, and a warm cup of hot chocolate, which definitely helped perk us up – it was freezing!

Away from all light pollution in the expanse of Atacama darkness, the vision is truly incredible. Crisp, clean air and unadulterated, white, bright galaxies. We were able to see a number of astronomical formations, only visible in the Southern Hemisphere, several planets including Jupiter, Saturn and Mars and lose ourselves among the cloudy Milky Way. It was really helpful having the two local astronomers there to explain what all the constellations are.

Book your San Pedro accommodation here.

Because we had an early flight from Calama to Santiago the next day, we decided not to risk a delayed bus and spent our second last night in the mining town. 

The bus ride from San Pedro de Atacama (about 100km from Calama) through the desert as the sun was setting was quite surreal. We passed a barren moon-like landscape full of just sand and rocks that seemed to go on forever.

Arriving here and trying to get to our accommodation was probably the only time I have felt unsafe on this whole whirlwind South American adventure. This was also the only hotel we stayed in on the whole trip! Definitely not a place I would stop if I had the choice.

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Salar de Uyuni

You have seen the photos on the salt flats with crazy perspectives but there is so much more to a trip from Uyuni across the salt flats.

Think multi-coloured lakes with flamingos, geysers, thermal hot-springs and fascinating rock formations.

The three-day trip that took us from Bolivia to Chile was stunning, arid and hostile all at once.

The landscapes crossed during this off-road journey must be some of the most surreal terrain found anywhere in the world.

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After an overnight ride on a local bus from La Paz – small, cold and crowded bus – we arrived in Uyuni around 5am.

After fueling up on coffee and some basic supplies, we piled into a 4x4 with 6 other passengers and our driver. No matter how much I begged, there was to be no driving for me across this crazy landscape.

Our first stop was the rail graveyard. Seeing the hulking iron carcasses of disused trains heaped together and slowly rusting in the harsh elements is mesmerising.

Train graveyard

Train graveyard

After taking plenty of happy snaps, we made our way to the original salt hotel - made completely of salt - for lunch.

The next stop is probably my favourite of the trip – and it was on day one!

I cannot resist climbing monoliths and Fish Island rises from salt as far as the eye can see! t’s basically a mountain right in the middle of the otherwise desolate flats, covered in large boulders and cacti.

Fish Island

Fish Island

You do pay a fee to explore the island, and it takes about 45 minutes to walk up and around the whole area but I could have stayed longer!

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Before the sun started to set, we took some very amateur shots trying to get the crazy perspective o the salt. I would like to think my camera skills have improved in the last decade. I will just have to come back to test the theory!

Very basic photography skills!

Very basic photography skills!

These spectacular salt flats are the largest in the world spreading over 10,582 square kilometres.

The accommodation along the way is in basic dorm-style guesthouses. They call them “salt hotels”, as parts of the building are indeed made of salt. It took a lot of willpower for me to resist licking the wall.

Despite it being freezing – the salt flats sit around 3,656 metres above sea level – our next day starts before sunrise.

These guys are everywhere!

These guys are everywhere!

Red Lake

Red Lake

Today is a full day and we stop at Andean lagoons to hang out with hundreds of flamingos, big desert of Siloli where you can see Arbol de Piedra (the rock tree), red Lagoon with more flamingos.

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The red lake is known as Laguna Colorada, was by far the largest lagoon we saw. The water is blanketed by red algae giving it a red tint, which paired with the stunning mountain backdrop, salt platform, flamingos, and cacti, made this place absolutely picture perfect.

We also stopped by the green lake. This lake gets its colour from arsenic and other minerals.

Green Lake

Green Lake

We spent the night after this in the middle of nowhere and an attempt to stay outside and watch the sun drop over the desert was abandoned because it was absolutely freezing.

Right before we ran inside to see if I had more clothes I could put on…

Right before we ran inside to see if I had more clothes I could put on…

Day three saw another sunrise. We woke early to see the ‘Sol de Mañana’ geysers and then headed to the hot springs.

Here you can take a dip in the warm water, formed as a result of volcanic activity from the nearby Polques Volcano.

Hot Springs

Hot Springs

After three days of not washing I was keen. With the water hovering around 29 degrees, it was a blissful contrast to the chilly weather outside the pool. The views from relaxing in the waters aren’t half bad either.

Easing into the water

Easing into the water

This enthusiasm waned as I had to get out of the water into the cold air (I would say it was minus 5 or close to it..) and get dressed at the back of the car!

The pancakes and coffee lovingly prepared by our driver/guide/chef for the trip were very welcome.

Border crossing into Chile

Border crossing into Chile

From here it was on to the border crossing from Bolivia into Chile. Border control here is a tiny hut in the middle of nowhere but the exit stamps where quickly given and we were loaded onto a bus to make the long way down winding roads into San Pedro de Atacama. About an hour into the trip, the bus was stopped, and we were given a thorough inspection before gaining entry stamps.

This trip was roughing it a little, but the experience is definitely worth it. I would 100 per cent include it in your trip if you have the chance

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Adventuring in the Peruvian Amazon

When we planned our short but jam-packed trip to Peru, Bolivia and Chile. Mandy and I each picked one must-do that we built the itinerary around. My pick was the Inca Trail, but I am so glad Mandy picked the Amazon.

We started our journey here and while it was not without its challenges getting there, it was an incredible, unforgettable experience that still sticks with me a decade later.

The adventure started waiting at the baggage carousel in Lima International Airport. My flight from Sydney arrived about 30 minutes before Mandy’s came in from Toronto near midnight and we were so excited to see one another that it took a while for us to realise that Mandy’s bags never showed up.

After a stressful wait for the next flight to come in, the bags arrived and we dashed through customs and to the domestic terminal and just made our 5am plane to Iquitos.

The drama didn’t stop there. After being up most the of the night, I fell asleep on the short flight but awoke suddenly as the plane veered sharply and I looked out the window to see the ground directly below me as the plane was on its side! It turns out there was unusually heavy fog and the pilot had misjudged the landing. An announcement came over the loudspeaker to say they were going to make another attempt but if that failed, we would be returning to Lima – not how we wanted our holiday to start.

Luckily, the second landing attempt was successful, and it was first of several flights on this trip that ended with a round of applause from the passengers.

Iquitos is an island city in Peru that can only be reached by plane or boat. It takes about seven days to get down the river depending on the season and many people who live there have never left.

The town itself feels like it is stuck somewhere in the 1950’s with a dinner that would fit in in any American movie I have seen of the era.

Once arriving and removing all our warm clothes as the humidity started to seep in, we were loaded onto a boat and travelled two hours along the famous Amazon river to our home in the jungle fort the next three days.

Relaxing in our very necessary gumboots provided by the lodge.

Relaxing in our very necessary gumboots provided by the lodge.

On arriving at Amazonas Botanical Lodge, the relaxation pretty much set in. So much so that I ended up having a mid afternoon nap before we headed out for a short walk with our guide – a trained shaman – who showed us all the different medicinal plants that can be found in the jungle.

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We also made friends with the resident toucan, Simon the tortoise and some very friendly macaws.

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You would think after all the travelling we would be in for an early night, but off on a nocturnal tarantula hunt we went.

Luis sourcing a snack from the jungle.

Luis sourcing a snack from the jungle.

I was surprisingly relaxed exploring the jungle at night, mostly thanks to my confidence that Luis would keep us safe. Tarantulas were spotted and then it was definitely time for bed.

Our individual hut was open to the elements but covered in netting to keep the bugs out. It was nice to fall asleep to the sounds of the jungle.

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We rose before sunrise the next day to head down to the river and watch the show. The word amazing doesn’t even begin to cover the experience of seeing this wild world awaken from a custom-built tower for the very best views.

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After breakfast, we visited a local tribe to see how life in the Amazon really is but my absolute highlight of the day was meeting my spirit animal on the hike there.

We saw two sloths literally just hanging off some small trees and I could have stayed there for hours if I weren’t worried about being left behind! The jungle is truly full of amazing wildlife. We almost lost Mandy a few times chasing butterflies into the distance.

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The day was capped off at a sugar cane distillery where make rum and molasses. It is all done without any electricity and tastes delicious.

Walking to the boat from the distillery. In the wet season these stairs are completely submerged.

Walking to the boat from the distillery. In the wet season these stairs are completely submerged.

The icing on the cake of our first full day in the Amazon was a boat ride back to the lodge at sunset. I still struggle to find the words to describe the feeling of contentment seeing all the colours and just realising where we were.

The next morning, we were supposed to walk to somewhere called the Giant Tree but it was cancelled due to some serious jungle rain but by late morning the sun came out and we visited a local village where both Mandy and I had a fabulous time playing soccer with the school children.

Soccer fun!

Soccer fun!

After lunch it was time to leave the jungle and head back to Iquitos but not without one more lasting memory as we stopped the boat to watch some pink-nosed dolphins fishing. They were a little elusive for the camera but the memory still remains.

I may never make it back to see the mighty Amazon again but I hope all the memories never fade.

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Beyond, Places to Stay, Things to do Allison Wallace Beyond, Places to Stay, Things to do Allison Wallace

Sleeping in the Sahara

The drive from Fez was hot with a few stops along the way. The first stop was Imlil – sitting at 1800m above sea level, this town is known locally as ‘Moroccan Chammonix’ A strange sight to see and a little touristy for my like.

The next stop was much more fun as we spent some time with Barbary macaque (monkeys) in a forest. Many happy snaps were taken.

The last 15km into Merzouga along dry gravel roads in the middle of July was probably the hottest I have felt!

After a long day driving from Fez, we arrived at Auberge Les Dunes D´Or in Merzouga.

Mandy enjoying the cool of the pool.

Mandy enjoying the cool of the pool.

The hotel sits on the edge of the Sahara Desert, overlooking sand dune but with a very welcome pool to cool off in.

After a restful night, it was time to get out and experience what we came here for – time in the vast Sahara.

The morning was spent exploring the desert in a couple of land cruisers. We ran up sand dunes, experienced some incredible and unexpected landscapes and had tea in a Berber tent with some locals which was an amazing experience.

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In the afternoon it was time to saddle up on our camels to spend a night sleeping in the Sahara. We were each assigned a camel, I named mine Prince Ali but his actual name was Amshalah. We set out so late in the day because it was the middle of summer. In the cooler months, they leave into the desert a bit earlier.

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We rode over sand dunes for just over an hour into the desert as the sun was sinking over dunes in the distance. Such an other-worldly experience that I am so grateful for. I am also grateful the ride wasn’t much longer – camels are really not the most comfortable way to travel!

Riding a camel is kind of like lolling around on a large barrel with legs, constantly feeling like your saddle might be slipping off…

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As we rode along expertly led by our guide (with our other guide for the whole trip Momo, following behind on foot), we had time to admire the beauty of the Sahara. The light grains of sand gracefully danced in the breeze. Soon we reached the highest peak to see our overnight camp below.

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The spacious tents were positioned to face each other, with colourful seating in the middle, arranged in a circle to gather around a fire.

After dismounting the camels and letting them rest for the night, the more energetic amongst us decided to run up the nearest sand dune to try and catch the last of the sunset. I chose this moment to sit in camp and soak it all in.

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This is probably the one regret I have on this trip. Who knows when I will ever have the chance to run up a sand dune in the Sahara again?

Dinner at camp was an amazing tagine under the stars and the brightest moon I have ever seen. This was followed by a drum circle and singing before we all decided to pull our mattresses out of the tents and sleep under the stars. The summer heat had not abated at all so sleeping outside seemed the better option anyway!

Me and Prince Ali

Me and Prince Ali

This truly was a once-in-a-lifetime experience and I had trouble falling asleep as I didn’t want to miss a moment. I was mesmerised by the many, many stars which shone so brightly.

Rising early the next morning, we rode back to Merzouga and washed all that Sahara sand off with one last dip in the pool and set out on our next Moroccan adventure.

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