Riad Utopia Suites & Spa, Marrakech
Marrakech is a bustling, busy city surrounded by desert and the snow-capped Atlas Mountains.
After a day exploring the Medina, haggling for lamps, rugs and jewellery, and admiring the live thatre that unfolds daily in the Djemaa El Fna square, there is nothing quite like a quiet space to retreat to and relax in. This is where Riad Utopia Suites & Spa, Marrakech steps in.
A riad is a traditional Moroccan house, generally speaking built around an internal courtyard or garden. Ssome – like Riad Utopia – even feature an internal plunge or swimming pool.
Riad Utopia definitely lives up to the name and is a true oasis hidden within the centre of Medina – though it may take a little extra effort to find it!
On arrival, mint tea and biscuits are served by the pool while you check in which is so nice after carrying our bags down a narrow alley to get to the entrance.
The interior design is a mix of traditional Morocco style and modern elements with plenty of bright white spaces that are so soothing after the hectic life in the Medina.
With only nine rooms, life at the Riad is never very busy but if you really want some extra solitude, with incredible views, the rooftop terrace is huge and filled with lounges. You can admire the Atlas Mountains off in the distance or just relax with a book. You will even find some privacy curtains around the lounges to make it even more secluded. There isn’t a lot of shade on the roof through and our visit was in August so long stays were avoided due to the searing heat!
Each room has a name instead of a number which is a nice touch and they are all designed slightly differently. Our room was Clair de Musc, filled with a queen bed and an ensuite. Not huge but perfect for our needs as we spent most of our time out exploring Marrakech.
Clair de Musc suite
The locks on the doors are massive with antique style keys which are quirky but not super convenient to carry around. Luckily, you can leave them at reception to lighten your purse.
The water in the shower was a little cold but given it was over 40 degrees outside most day, it was kind of refreshing!
There is also a spa onsite but we didn’t try it. We did eat the simple breakfast including fresh orange juice and yoghurt along with the various breads that seemed to be served with every meal in Morocco.
Riad Utopia feels a world away, but this tranquil stay is less than a 15-minute walk from the square and the souks. If I even make it back to Morocco, I wouldn’t hesitate about booking myself a couple of nights back in this oasis.
Luang Prabang, Laos
Every now and then on your travels, you come across a place that you could lose yourself in and never leave. For me, Luang Prabang is one of those places.
Nestled in northern Laos, tucked among green mountains and majestic rivers, it’s no wonder Luang Prabang is a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The small city is a combination of impressive natural surroundings, historic architecture, and friendly inhabitants. All that makes it such a lovely and inviting place, I didn’t want to leave.
Mandy and I booked last minute so ended up staying in budget accommodation close to the centre of town. This meant that hiring bicycles from our hotel was our main way of getting around. Cycling was a great way to see all the city has to offer and also escape the heat on the downhill stretches.
It is a beautiful city, with its French architecture accented with palm trees and tuk-tuks. Most signs are written in Laotian and French, although we saw a fair amount of English as well.
Here are some highlights of this visit to Luang Prabang – a place I hope to see again.
Things to do
Night market: The Luang Prabang Night Market takes place every night from 5pm, right in the centre of town. We arrived on a late afternoon flight from Siem Reap so our first stop after checking in was to the night market. The amazing Luang Prabang Night Markets is a place where locals and tourists come together to converse, shop and eat all in one location. A difference I felt at these markets was there was a complete lack of pressure or push-selling from the locals. The market’s Hmong and Lao vendors sit on mats with their wares spread around them, allowing you to browse in relative peace.
Just off the Night Market entrance, delicious smells waft from a narrow alley. This is ‘food street’ and you will want to spend some time here. Along with a range of bbq’d meats and salted fish, I found my beloved noodle soup here. After you have filled on savoury delights, don’t forget to check out the local cakes on display or, my favourite, tiny coconut pancakes. The batter is made with coconut milk, sugar and rice flour and cooked over hot coals in a round cupcake-esque baking sheet. The two halves are cooked separately then sandwiched together to make bite-sized sweets.
Delicious tiny coconut pancakes
Mount Phousi: We walked to the top of this baby for sunset and were not prepared at all for how many people had the same idea! There are 360-degree views at the top, so the effort and the crowds are worth it! My first tip is to take some water. 328 steps may not sound like much but in the humid afternoon air, it definitely saps it out of you.
You will need to pay an entrance fee of about 20,000 kips (roughly $4) and you can pay this about halfway to the top – the perfect excuse for a water break. From the top of the mountain, you can see a fabulous view of Luang Prabang and the Mekong Delta. If you are hoping to see sunset, I recommend you go early to get a good vantage point.
Garden of Eden: This local shop is a gem – pun fully intended! We discovered on the recommendation of one of Mandy’s friends who had been before. Garden of Eden is a teeny tiny wonder on the other side of a bamboo bridge. We had to get there the long way around on our bikes as the bamboo bridge is built every dry season and washes away in the wet season and only reached halfway across the river when we were there.
Garden of Eden
Here, not only can you purchase one-of-a-kind hand-made local jewellery, but even create necklaces, bracelets, and earrings of your own by following instructions from local artisans. We weren’t there at the right time for any lessons but spent quite a bit of time shopping and I came home with presents for the ladies in my family.
Visit the temples: There are some 36 temples are scattered around town. Given we only had a couple of days to explore, we limited our choices to a select few but you could lose days visiting them.
Sunset river cruise: There are several options for a sunset river cruise but we were lucky enough to tag along with the cruise run by The Belle Rive Boutique Hotel – a stunning place I desperately wanted to stay at but with only 13 rooms available, we didn’t book in time.
Mandy enjoying a cruise before sunset
The cruise departs across from the hotel in a lovely wooden boat. We were offered a drink to sip as we watched the world go by. A river cruise allows you to see Luang Prabang from a different angle and usually offers up a cracking sunset, viewed from all angles.
Sunset on the Mekong
What to eat
Aside from noodle soup, one of my favourite meals in Laos was Lao fondue. We had this delicious meal at one of the most picturesque spots I have ever been – Dyen Sabai. Located across the river - accessed ideally via that temporary bamboo bridge - this restaurant is a perfect spot for those wishing to escape the busy atmosphere of the main streets. The view from the river front of the restaurant is breathtaking.
Vegetarian Laos Fondue
For the fondue – which is more like a hotpot - a wrought iron bowl is placed in the hole in the middle of your table with coals burning. On it a spherical dome is placed with a ‘moat’ surrounding it. From there it is very much cook our own approach. You’re given a plate of raw meats, a selection of glass noodles and vegetables and huge kettle full of stock. You place the meat in the middle to cook whilst filling the ‘moat’ with stock and your selection of veg – and voila, the never-ending hotpot meal results. We washed it all down with a couple of Beer Laos before cycling back to the other side of town.
The unfinished bamboo bridge
Laos coffee is something you should definitely try on your Luang Prabang visit. Be warned though, this strong brew isn’t for the faint of heart. For those who like their coffee rich and strong, you’ve come to the right place.
Laos Coffee brewing
The Lao mostly don’t drink their coffee black, and instead diffuse it with a cocktail of powdered milk, evaporated milk and sweetened condensed milk. They brew it with a massive cloth filter, slightly resembling a large sock, and ensure the brew is extra strong. The result is a thick, sweet, earthly, delicious concoction of rocket fuel to refresh and revive.
We always sought out the places in the mornings where the locals were having their coffees and joined in. You can have it served hot or cold depending on your mood, but I like it both ways and missed this pick-me-up when I returned home.
Where to stay
Luang Prabang isn’t huge and the old town area is very compact so getting around is pretty easy. No matter where you stay you will be able to see everything easily enough.
The old town can be defined as the area within the the Luang Prabang peninsula, which is bounded by the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers. This is where you will find the stunning The Belle Rive Boutique Hotel which overlooks the Mekong. You might also want to check out Villa Santi Hotel - a boutique hotel in a renovated royal mansion. It’s set in a lush tropical garden in the back streets of the old town.
If you are looking for luxury AVANI+ Luang Prabang is a 5-star resort hotel on the main road but most of the luxury resorts are a bit further out of town. Belmond La Résidence Phou Vao is a tranquil hillside resort overlooking the ancient capital, about a 5-minute tuk-tuk ride from the centre of old town.
Book a Luang Prabang stay of your own here.
Nearby
Just a short trip out of town is the picturesque Kuang Si Falls. These famous falls are a must-see and you can read all about it on my dedicated blog here.
Shinta Mani Shack, Siem Reap
When looking for a place to stay in Siem Reap, I wanted somewhere that would be a cool and calm oasis to escape to after exploring the bustling town and ancient temples.
There are a couple of reasons I landed on Shinta Mani Shack as the best spot to kick off my adventure in Cambodia.
Not only is this Bill Bensley-designed boutique property - located in the leafy French Quartier between the Royal Gardens and the Old Market Area in Siem Reap town – home to one of the best-looking pools I have ever seen, a portion of my nightly room cost goes directly to the Shinta Mani Foundation.
The goal of the Shinta Mani Foundation is to improve the lives of Cambodians and Cambodian communities by giving them opportunities to overcome poverty. The charity has impacted the lives of thousands – building more than a hundred homes and digging thousands of wells but the organisation does other good works as well, including everything from bicycles to micro-loans to help entrepreneurs become self-starters, but the beginnings were born from the need for good staff. Shinta Mani is a true leader in responsible travel.
Bright and airy - the lobby
So, it was with a happy heart that I arrived into the cool, fresh lobby of this 2019 TripAdvisor Traveller’s Choice winner after a flight from Australia and a hot tuk tuk ride from the airport.
All the senses are accounted for. Think bright colours, neon signs, wild sculptures, and of course… monochrome stripes everywhere.
The happy vibe continued to the room – all of which face the central courtyard with a large black and white striped pool. I stayed in a Poolside Garden Rooms on the ground floor rooms which allowed direct access to the pool through a set of French doors – perfection. Apparently the suites upstairs have more room but I found this to be plenty for my 3-night visit.
The view from my room
An afternoon enjoying refreshing drinks by the pool is an afternoon well spent. In the heat and humidity of Siem Reap, early mornings are the best time to explore the temples.
Delicious Khmer and international food can be eaten at the hotel’s restaurant Baitong or you can wander across the road to the sister hotel, 5-star Shinta Mani Angkor for a special meal.
There's also the laid back Bensley's Bar at Shinta Mani Angkor, the perfect scenic spot for a pre or post dinner drink, and a poolside bar to boot. I particularly loved hanging out on the black and white-striped swing seats for a drink.
Spectacular swing seats
Cocktail time!
I can also recommend a visit to the Shinta Mani Spa. Pamper yourself with massages, body treatments and facials in the most tranquil setting. No outside sounds make it into this space.
Service at the hotel is exceptional and the staff are always on hand with a bottle of water and refreshing cold towels after your adventures.
Shinta Mani Shack is perfect for those looking for a small, stylish boutique hotel in a convenient location in Siem Reap that feels more luxurious than what you are paying. It is about a 15-minute walk, or a 5-minute tuk-tuk ride, to the night market and bar area. The staff will swiftly get you a ride of your choice to take you wherever you want to go.
Relaxing by the pool
Fraser Island
Part of me doesn't want to write this post because I want to keep the secret, but the other part of me cannot wait to share the amazing spots you can find on the world's largest sand island.
Many flock to K’gari (Fraser Island) for the beach driving and pristine freshwater lakes but they tend to stay on the East Coast which is easily accessible from the Inskip barge and has plenty of camping or accommodation options. Those looking for a little less 'roughing it' land from Hervey Bay at Kingfisher Resort and barely even have that 'covered in sand and sunscreen' feeling.
There is so much to see and do on this relatively small island, from the sand driving to the famous blue waters of Lake McKenzie, you won't be bored but for us, it is a chance to escape the crowds and live off the grid for a little while.
It takes a little more effort and a lot more gear to spend 10 days hours from any sort of civilization. But it is so worth it.
Once we hit the sand from the barge from Inskip, or Rainbow Beach, on the mainland, you drive an hour or two north then another hour or so driving across the island before we hit the quieter, calmer West Coast of Fraser Island. To get to where we want to camp, you need to really pay attention to the tides as the rivers and creeks on this side are a lot bigger and changeable than on the popular East Coast and you might get stuck unable to drive across them at high tide.
You could also get here by boat from Hervey Bay if you have your own.
Once on the coast again we continue to head north - to the northernmost campsite on this side of the island before Wathumba Creek. It is unlikely you will see anyone else camped here and that is the biggest part of its appeal.
All we need is our tent, a fridge, a gazebo (essential for that scorching midday sun) and whatever else floats your boat. For us this was fishing rods, a hammock, my SUP and the tinny. Cue 10 days of pure, isolated bliss.
You will see some people driving past on occasion - usually people fishing but they will return further south to their campsites. In 10 days, our only visitors were dolphins (daily!), turtles and the Fraser Island Ranger who came once to check our permits were in order.
You will be forced to make friends with all manner of insects but that is just part of island life.
Pack enough water and food (pending the fish catching of course) to last you, your stay unless you plan to drive to the other side of the island because there is nothing to buy here. We also rigged up a little shower from the small creek that runs behind the campsite. This was perfect for rinsing the salt and sunscreen off or just cooling down.
Our days started with brekkie and a swim for me and some pre-brekkie fishing for the man. Your body is truly guided by the sunshine so up early and early to bed.
Within walking distance of camp, we had the 'coffee rock' - made up of ancient sands and river sediments - providing a haven for smaller fish and large sand dunes to either admire or run up. All depending on your energy levels.
We fished a bit and caught a range of things, some we kept to each and others we released for another day.
We snorkelled a bit further out, seeing turtles and stingrays enjoying the warm waters as much as we were. It was serene and peaceful.
An added bonus of camping on the West Coast was that we got to watch sunset every night, always will a keen eye out for dolphins of course.
On this trip, my favourite after dinner activity of stargazing was curbed somewhat by the full moon blazing in the sky but this did mean evening walks before bed didn't require a torch!
North Stradbroke Island
It is amazing how many things are within easy reach of the Sunny Coast. Luckily for me Stradbroke Island is one of them!
From where we are on the Sunny Coast it will take you under 2 hours to get to the ferry crossing at Cleveland. From there you can jump on the car ferry (prices vary depending on time of day and year…) and 45 minutes later you will be enjoying your adventure on Straddie.
Ours was a spur of the moment camping trip and we wanted to get away from it all a bit so we chose Flinders Beach, right on the northern end of the island. To get to this section, you will need both a 4WD and a beach driving permit – these are just over $42 each but will last you a whole year.
These camp sites have no facilities but the benefits are that they are huge – so no close neighbours – and are right on the beach for the best way to wake up.
An added bonus for me is that you are allowed campfires here which is seriously one of the best parts of camping!
Another advantage of being away from any lights and not to close to any other campers is that after dark, the sky comes alive. You tend to forget how many stars are out there when you are in a built up are. You might even get a sore neck from admiring it.
If camping isn’t your thing, there are plenty of other options all over the island so you won’t miss out and you won’t have to lug all your belongings like we did.
Once we set up camp it was time to do some exploring!
Even without a 4WD, you can explore most of North Stradbroke. Some of the highlights are Point Lookout, North Gorge Walk and dolphin spotting at Amity Point.
Let’s start with Amity Point, mostly because I am OBSESSED with dolphins. About an hour to half an hour before sunset, you are pretty much guaranteed to see some dolphins in the calm waters off Amity Point. In my brief time there, I saw several pods playing further out and one bub just swimming around the jetty! This is because they are on their way north to Moreton Island for their regular feeding time at Tangalooma.
Along the North Gorge Walk – which is super easy and had a convenient raised path - look out for dolphins, whales, sea turtles, kangaroos, koalas, and manta rays. The Kangaroos we saw were not afraid of us and barely even moved despite their proximity to us.
On this visit we weren’t able to walk all the way down to Main Beach because the end was closed off for the filming of Aquaman. Can’t wait to see that footage.
The other thing about Straddie that just takes your breath away are the beaches! The island is pretty small so there is always a beach that will suit the conditions.
Cylinder Beach is fairly protected and offers up some surf and if you want to try some beach fishing Flinders has some gutters if you look for them.
We didn’t make it this time (just another reason to come back…) but the freshwater of Blue Lake sounds like an amazing spot to cool off at after a bit of a hike.
Of course there are many activities that you can do on the island; and a simple Internet search will enable you to view and book for example kayaking experiences, sand boarding or diving trips.
Mantra Richmont Hotel
One of the great things about the Sunshine Coast is that if you crave that bit of action that a city has to offer, Brisbane is less than an hour and a half away.
After nearly six months in my new home, I decided to visit some friends in good old Bris-Vegas and chose to stay close to where we had dinner planned in Fortitude Valley.
The Mantra Richmont Hotel opened just last year in Kennigo Street, Spring Hill and is just a short walk from all the hustle and bustle of Brisbane’s CBD and, of course, all the bars and restaurants of Fortitude Valley.
While part of the Mantra chain, this hotel has a bit of a boutique feel about it which is nice – especially for the price!
There is a gym at the hotel if you are so inclined but no pool, and also a small café located in the lobby for those in a hurry to get out and about.
In the renovated Queenslander right next door (and linked by a 2nd level walkway), you will find Kennigo Social House if you are looking for something more substantial, or a stiff drink.
The building was once a men's boarding house but now it serves up delicious breakfasts, lunch and dinner. The dinner menu is designed to share – my favourite!
The hotel itself has a 24-hour reception desk which means you can sort yourself out any time of day.
I had a very comfortable stay in a hotel room at the back of the building – the room was on the small side but more than enough space for one person. The queen bed was super comfortable, it had a decent bathroom with amazing shower pressure and Urban Skincare products (although the lighting could be better for makeup application), Vittoria coffee machine and tea making facilities.
All rooms are air-conditioned with LCD TV and iPod docking facilities.
If, like me, you have driven into the city, the hotel offers 24-hour parking for $20 but on the weekends, parking on the street is free and unlimited – a rare find in a busy city!
The Mantra Richmont is the perfect city getaway hotel, close to everything but far enough away to feel like you are getting away from it all and the price is right for those wanting to save some cash for all the shopping and eating and drinking...
