Discovering Paradise: Lady Elliot Island
Lady Elliot Island wasn’t in our plans on a recent trip to Agnes Water and 1770 but the wind conspired against us and our boat trip to Lady Musgrave Island was cancelled.
Lady Musgrave Island showing off!
This turned out to be a happy accident a we managed to score a scenic flight over Lady Musgrave on our flight to Lady Elliot Island and ended up with the most perfect day – magical conditions those on the island hadn’t seen in years!
The tiny plane that seats 10 takes off from a dirt strip just basically between Agnes Waters and 1770. I have been on a few small planes like this so let Aiden sit up front and be co-pilot.
Lady Elliot Island is one of the southernmost cays of the Great Barrier Reef and is known for its abundance of sea turtles, manta rays, reef sharks, and spectacular array of other marine species. The scenic flight out took us over Lady Musgrave Island giving us stunning aerial views and a desire to make that boat trip there happen one day!
Coming in to land on Lady Elliot Island.
The landing strip on the island itself is quite literally a strip of grass running the whole length of the island. On one side, is the resort, including rooms, dining areas, the dive shop, locker rooms, the pool and the ‘Lagoon’. On the other side of the landing strip, tucked away in the trees, are the staff accommodations as well as what is known at the ocean side of the island – a coral beach leading out to amazing snorkelling and deeper dive sites.
On the day trip, everything you need is included – a glass bottom boat ride, snorkel gear, reef shoes, a storage locker and lunch! If you want to try a dive it will cost extra but definitely pack the sunscreen because even snorkelling you will spend much of the day in the water. In fact – Aiden and I were rushing from the ocean to get out of our wet swimmers and back on the plane because we were like kids who wouldn’t get out of the ocean.
Small turtle exploring the deep water.
One benefit of the day trip from Agnes Waters is that it is the closet departure point on the mainland, so it means you have the longest time on the island. We arrived at 9.20 in the morning after a half hour flight and left at 4pm.
We spent most of the time ocean side as you can only swim in the lagoon a couple of hours either side of high tide. The shallow waters there so provide some interesting corals and great water colours for photos.
Not even 10 steps away from the beach and the beautiful coral life had already started. It stretched for as far as I could see.
Our visit was just at the start of turtle mating season and we were told we might see a few turtles hanging out in the shallows. A few is an understatement! There were turtles everywhere!
As unreal as it may sound, the experience of floating with the turtle and even going underwater with it for a few brief seconds was an experience of a lifetime. It did feel a little intrusive whenever the currents took us close to the mating turtles though. It was interesting to see one female being followed by several males – nature up close incredible and mystifying.
As well as the turtles, we saw a couple of reef sharks, large coral trout, a school of trevally spiralling and loads of reef fish. It was one of the best snorkelling experiences I have had!
If you end up visiting the Lady Elliot Island between February through to April, you can even experience turtle hatching.
Coming up for air.
It is crazy to think that this island was completely bare until 1970 when trees were planted. On our visit in early October, the birds were coming into nest. When I say birds, I mean thousands and thousands, all looking for a tiny branch to build their home for the next generation. No need to worry about swooping those, these Black Noddys and Bridled Terns were just interested in building and nesting.
Given the different migrating and mating habits of all the marine animals in this area, each season is a different experience. I would love to come back in winter when the resident Manta Rays are visiting.
Leaving paradise for reality.
Visiting Lady Elliot is also a conservation inspiration. It is considered to be one of world’s best examples of marine ecotourism. With the implementation of solar and gas technology and water desalination, this multi award-winning ecotourism destination has committed to sustainable operations on a long-term basis. The Lady Elliot Island Eco Resort has also played a lead role in achieving a ‘Green Zone’ designation for the island and surrounding waters from the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park Authority.
We did the day trip here but would 100 per cent stay the night if we didn’t have to get back to the dog! I can only imagine sunset and sunrise over those reefs.
Finding Sunrise
Being on the east coast, the Sunshine Coast gets way better sunrises than sunsets – unless you find a nice spot at Noosa Main Beach in autumn or summit one of the Glass House Mountains for a bird’s eye view.
Luckily, I am a bit of a morning person so getting up to spot sunrise is something I relish – albeit not during Queensland summer when the sun gets up around 4am!
Here on the Sunshine Coast, we are lucky to have some of the world’s best-kept beaches where you can enjoy that small window of time each day where dark becomes light.
The best bit is that generally you only have to share the view with a few other early risers unless it is Anzac Day!
Here are a few of my favourite sunrise spots:
Mudjimba
Watching the sun rise above the horizon and over Old Woman Island is one of my favourite ways to start the day!
Grab a coffee from High Tide or the Island and watch the surfers catch waves as the sky changes colours. The most dramatic colours are usually just before the sun actually comes up, and I love walking down the beach and soaking it all in as the waves lick at my feet.
Maroochy River
One of my regular morning running spots is along the Maroochy River from Fishermans Rd to Chambers Island.
During autumn and winter, the still river water reflects the colours of sunrise in the most beautiful way that I inevitably stop and take photos at different points along the way – quite often using my dog as a model.
One of the best spots to stop is near the quaint boathouse jetties jutting out over the river or standing on the bridge over to Chambers Island watching the kayakers and SUP-ers paddling in the changing light.
Mooloolaba
Every morning without fail, the Beach Bums take to the calm waters at Mooloolaba for an ocean swim. I enjoy getting there a bit earlier and watching the sun rise over the lighthouse at Pt Cartwright in the distance before jumping in the water.
The stretch of sand can get a bit busy here - even before 6am – so I tend to walk further down towards the point to enjoy the scenery on my own.
Sunrise Beach
It should come as no surprise that a beach named after the event is a good spot to see sunrise!
Jutting up against the Noosa National Park, Sunrise Beach’s endless stretch of white sand and pristine rolling waves make it the perfect spot to soak up the earliest rays of sunshine. Take a picnic blanket and get cosy on the hill and watch the show.
Mt Coolum
Start the little day with a hike up Mount Coolum and you’ll be rewarded with a great vista to watch the day start out, with views extending from Noosa National Park to Caloundra, as well as the cane fields and Maroochy River.
Early morning is one of the best times to climb Mt Coolum, before the heat of the day and before the crowds turn up. To catch the sunrise from the summit, you’ll want to start pretty early and take a torch.
Where is your favourite spot?
North Stradbroke Island
It is amazing how many things are within easy reach of the Sunny Coast. Luckily for me Stradbroke Island is one of them!
From where we are on the Sunny Coast it will take you under 2 hours to get to the ferry crossing at Cleveland. From there you can jump on the car ferry (prices vary depending on time of day and year…) and 45 minutes later you will be enjoying your adventure on Straddie.
Ours was a spur of the moment camping trip and we wanted to get away from it all a bit so we chose Flinders Beach, right on the northern end of the island. To get to this section, you will need both a 4WD and a beach driving permit – these are just over $42 each but will last you a whole year.
These camp sites have no facilities but the benefits are that they are huge – so no close neighbours – and are right on the beach for the best way to wake up.
An added bonus for me is that you are allowed campfires here which is seriously one of the best parts of camping!
Another advantage of being away from any lights and not to close to any other campers is that after dark, the sky comes alive. You tend to forget how many stars are out there when you are in a built up are. You might even get a sore neck from admiring it.
If camping isn’t your thing, there are plenty of other options all over the island so you won’t miss out and you won’t have to lug all your belongings like we did.
Once we set up camp it was time to do some exploring!
Even without a 4WD, you can explore most of North Stradbroke. Some of the highlights are Point Lookout, North Gorge Walk and dolphin spotting at Amity Point.
Let’s start with Amity Point, mostly because I am OBSESSED with dolphins. About an hour to half an hour before sunset, you are pretty much guaranteed to see some dolphins in the calm waters off Amity Point. In my brief time there, I saw several pods playing further out and one bub just swimming around the jetty! This is because they are on their way north to Moreton Island for their regular feeding time at Tangalooma.
Along the North Gorge Walk – which is super easy and had a convenient raised path - look out for dolphins, whales, sea turtles, kangaroos, koalas, and manta rays. The Kangaroos we saw were not afraid of us and barely even moved despite their proximity to us.
On this visit we weren’t able to walk all the way down to Main Beach because the end was closed off for the filming of Aquaman. Can’t wait to see that footage.
The other thing about Straddie that just takes your breath away are the beaches! The island is pretty small so there is always a beach that will suit the conditions.
Cylinder Beach is fairly protected and offers up some surf and if you want to try some beach fishing Flinders has some gutters if you look for them.
We didn’t make it this time (just another reason to come back…) but the freshwater of Blue Lake sounds like an amazing spot to cool off at after a bit of a hike.
Of course there are many activities that you can do on the island; and a simple Internet search will enable you to view and book for example kayaking experiences, sand boarding or diving trips.
Noosa National Park Coastal Walk
If ever there was a place you would call paradise, this is it…
Kick off a stunning walk with a stroll along the boardwalk from the end of Noosa Main Beach.
This coastal track will take you past a couple of secluded beaches in the national park such as Tea Tree Bay, Winch Cove and Granite Bay that are ideal swimming spots.
We made our way towards the poorly named Hells Gate and clambered over the rocks to the Intsa-popular Fairy Pools which my nephew couldn’t get enough of!
The Fairy Pools are two natural tidal pools lying low between the basalt rocks just west of the tip of the headland and are best accessed at lower tides for safety reasons!
There is no signage for this special spot but the Fairy Pools are just below Dolphin Point – where we were lucky enough to spy a few actual dolphins playing out in the water.
The total distance (one way) along the coastal track is just over 5 kilometres but you can get away with a partial walk – especially if you have younger kids trailing along with you!
If you want to walk the whole way, you will have a beach walk section along Alexandria Bay – the coast’s unofficial nudie beach - before you reach the northern end of Sunshine Beach.
We didn’t make it this far on my first visit but apparently just before you get to Sunshine Beach there are A LOT of stairs to negotiate down (and presumably back up!)
You don’t have to backtrack all the way back, as there the inland Tanglewood Path near Hells Gate that takes you back through eucalypt and rainforest woodlands. At the halfway mark, take the elevated Noosa Hill track (which has some filtered views from its peak) back to the car park and start of the coastal path.
For what it is worth, the best views are at the beginning and Tee Tree Bay looks so inviting that I believe this is a spot I will return to again and again – even if only to search for the koalas that live in the trees around here.
The walk itself isn’t too difficult and doesn’t have a lot of hills or climbing – much of the path up to Dolphin Point from Noosa would even be pram friendly!
We managed to have a picture-perfect June day where it was still warm enough to swim and there were still plenty of people about. I can imagine that this path – and the Fairy Pools – get super busy in Summer and school holidays.
You will even spy keen surfers carrying their boards along the track searching for great waves away from the crowds.
It is easy to see why Noosa is popular with locals and tourists alike! Why not come see for yourself and book a Noosa getaway here.
Rainbow Beach & Double Island Point
Rainbow Beach is probably best known as a stop off point before accessing Fraser Island but the beach-side town is a spot worth visiting in its own right.
Rainbow Beach can be accessed one of two ways from the Sunny Coast – along the beach by 4WD or via Gympie if you have to take the sealed roads.
If you choose the beach driving option, you will need a pass to cruise through Cooloola National Park.
Once you get there, you will find so much so do – it is an idyllic getaway for beach-goers, surfers, fishermen and campers alike.
Take the kids up (and down) the Carlo Sand Blow for an adventure and an amazing view over Double Island Point and the Coloured Sands.
Beyond the Carlo Sand Blow, and offering a superb view over the ocean with the likelihood of seeing dolphins, turtles, dugongs and even sharks is Double Island Point and the Double Island Point Lighthouse.
For keen surfers it is claimed that Double Island Point has the longest wave break in Australia. Double Island Point was named by Captain Cook on 18 May, 1770. He noted in his journal: "I have named ... Double Island Point from its figure ... the point itself is of such unequal height that it looks like two small islands laying under the land."
Double Island Point can only be accessed by 4WD – and generally only at low tide - either by driving south along the beach from Rainbow Beach, or by heading north along the beach from Noosa.
The secluded spot is good only for day visits though with a no camping rule in place. If you simply must stay close by, there there is a camping zone between the Noosa Shire boundary and Little Freshwater Creek.
If you can tear yourself away from time in the ocean, a walk up to the lighthouse is well worth it.
You can’t go inside the actual lighthouse but the views both north and south from the point are spectacular – you might even be able to spot some of the wildlife enjoying the water in the area.
To get up close and personal with the marine creatures, why not sort a scuba trip and see why some people say this is one of Australia’s top 10 dive spots.
Find somewhere to stay in Rainbow Beach.
Noosa North Shore & Cooloola National Park
The main Beach of Noosa and Hastings St get all the coverage but just north of here is an unspoilt piece of paradise - without the crowds.
You will need a 4WD to truly enjoy this stretch of sand, but it is worth it.
Before jumping off, you will need to get a permit for the day if you want to drive on the sandy stretch because this is Coolola National Park after all. These are easy to get at the information office just before the ferry.
At the information office, I recommend you grab a tide chart as some of the beach will disappear at high tide, making driving a little more challenging.
We headed for the small car ferry from Tewantin ($7 each way) that will take you over to the north side in just two minutes - by the time you have paid your fare, it is time to drive off.
Once there, you will find a long stretch of pristine sand, dunes and beautiful coastline. You can pick out your own spot along the beach to relax or go fishing without anyone nearby bothering you - apart from the occasional 4WD zooming past.
If you have more time and are organised, there are camping spots (15 sites in total) along the beach so make it a holiday rather than a day trip- but remember you will have to book in!
The beach driving stretches 50km north, all the way to Rainbow Beach where you will spy Fraser Island, but we just stopped and enjoyed the vibrant reds and oranges of the sand dunes and even found a spot to clamber up and enjoy the view from the top.
If you are looking for more walking and less driving, Cooloola National Park has a range of bush walks lasting from half an hour to multi-day treks. Most of the walks start from the Elanda Point, and four at the Harrys Hut camping ground.
For a different perspective, you can hire a canoe at Tin Can Bay, Boreen Point or at the Harrys Hut camping area and explore the Noosa river flowing around the park.
No matter which way you choose to travel, this is a gorgeous spot worth a visit.
North Shore Beach, Mudjimba
If you have a dog or love dogs, this is the beach you will come to.
This large stretch of sand and wild sea extends from the beach entrance 500m south Twin Waters all the way to the Maroochy River.
You can let your dog off the leash in the whole area and the locals make the most of it so even if you don't have a pup, chances are you will encounter plenty on your visit.
Perched at the end you will find Pincushion Island - not only a great spot to visit but also perfect for getting views of Maroochydore.
The small island is a sandstone outcrop at the mouth of the Maroochy River about 100 metres across and supports a small grove of banksia trees.
The rock pools here are very attractive, some of which are large enough to sit in at low tide - though we wouldn't recommend this in the cyclone Debbie weather we experienced on our most recent visit.
Along the top of the island you can see the remains of a boardwalk that has fallen into disrepair.
In the distance you can even see Point Cartwright, Alexandra Headland and Mooloolaba.
On the other side of the peninsula, you can access the calmer waters inside the river - and there is no shortage of dogs enjoying the sun and sand here either.
Any given day you will find people and their pups relaxing, swimming, fishing and boating on the inside of North Shore beach - making it ideal for younger kids to enjoy the water.
While there is vehicle access and parking for both the beach and river side, you can actually walk all the way around on foot which makes for a nice easy stroll - plus you can cool off with a swim whenever you want!
Cotton Tree
In a place FULL of beaches it can be hard to explore them all at once but Cotton Tree is a great place to start.
This area is protected from the bigger east coast swell by a break wall at the mouth of the river, offering a calm and relaxing swim.
Cotton Tree is an ideal spot to come with younger children and, with it's gentle waves, it is also the perfect place for those wanting to learn how to surf.
In peak periods and on the weekends, you may struggle for a minute to find a park but once you do, you can set up for hours with large, flat sandy areas for your beach brolly.
If you want it even calmer, walk around the bay past the caravan park and you will find beach access to the lagoon-like river. Big groups of paddle-boarders is a common sight here and I can't wait to try it out!
Cotton Tree also has a central location to Maroochydore should you need supplies or are looking for a cafe for lunch in between swims.