Allison Wallace 10/28/19 Allison Wallace 10/28/19

Luang Prabang, Laos

Every now and then on your travels, you come across a place that you could lose yourself in and never leave. For me, Luang Prabang is one of those places.

Nestled in northern Laos, tucked among green mountains and majestic rivers, it’s no wonder Luang Prabang is a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The small city is a combination of impressive natural surroundings, historic architecture, and friendly inhabitants. All that makes it such a lovely and inviting place, I didn’t want to leave.

Mandy and I booked last minute so ended up staying in budget accommodation close to the centre of town. This meant that hiring bicycles from our hotel was our main way of getting around. Cycling was a great way to see all the city has to offer and also escape the heat on the downhill stretches.

It is a beautiful city, with its French architecture accented with palm trees and tuk-tuks. Most signs are written in Laotian and French, although we saw a fair amount of English as well.

Here are some highlights of this visit to Luang Prabang – a place I hope to see again.

Things to do

Night market: The Luang Prabang Night Market takes place every night from 5pm, right in the centre of town. We arrived on a late afternoon flight from Siem Reap so our first stop after checking in was to the night market. The amazing Luang Prabang Night Markets is a place where locals and tourists come together to converse, shop and eat all in one location. A difference I felt at these markets was there was a complete lack of pressure or push-selling from the locals. The market’s Hmong and Lao vendors sit on mats with their wares spread around them, allowing you to browse in relative peace.

Just off the Night Market entrance, delicious smells waft from a narrow alley. This is ‘food street’ and you will want to spend some time here. Along with a range of bbq’d meats and salted fish, I found my beloved noodle soup here. After you have filled on savoury delights, don’t forget to check out the local cakes on display or, my favourite, tiny coconut pancakes. The batter is made with coconut milk, sugar and rice flour and cooked over hot coals in a round cupcake-esque baking sheet. The two halves are cooked separately then sandwiched together to make bite-sized sweets.

Mount Phousi: We walked to the top of this baby for sunset and were not prepared at all for how many people had the same idea! There are 360-degree views at the top, so the effort and the crowds are worth it! My first tip is to take some water. 328 steps may not sound like much but in the humid afternoon air, it definitely saps it out of you.

You will need to pay an entrance fee of about 20,000 kips (roughly $4) and you can pay this about halfway to the top – the perfect excuse for a water break. From the top of the mountain, you can see a fabulous view of Luang Prabang and the Mekong Delta. If you are hoping to see sunset, I recommend you go early to get a good vantage point.

Garden of Eden: This local shop is a gem – pun fully intended! We discovered on the recommendation of one of Mandy’s friends who had been before. Garden of Eden is a teeny tiny wonder on the other side of a bamboo bridge. We had to get there the long way around on our bikes as the bamboo bridge is built every dry season and washes away in the wet season and only reached halfway across the river when we were there.

Here, not only can you purchase one-of-a-kind hand-made local jewellery, but even create necklaces, bracelets, and earrings of your own by following instructions from local artisans. We weren’t there at the right time for any lessons but spent quite a bit of time shopping and I came home with presents for the ladies in my family.

Visit the temples: There are some 36 temples are scattered around town. Given we only had a couple of days to explore, we limited our choices to a select few but you could lose days visiting them.

Sunset river cruise: There are several options for a sunset river cruise but we were lucky enough to tag along with the cruise run by The Belle Rive Boutique Hotel – a stunning place I desperately wanted to stay at but with only 13 rooms available, we didn’t book in time.

The cruise departs across from the hotel in a lovely wooden boat. We were offered a drink to sip as we watched the world go by. A river cruise allows you to see Luang Prabang from a different angle and usually offers up a cracking sunset, viewed from all angles.

What to eat

Aside from noodle soup, one of my favourite meals in Laos was Lao fondue. We had this delicious meal at one of the most picturesque spots I have ever been – Dyen Sabai. Located across the river - accessed ideally via that temporary bamboo bridge - this restaurant is a perfect spot for those wishing to escape the busy atmosphere of the main streets. The view from the river front of the restaurant is breathtaking.

For the fondue – which is more like a hotpot - a wrought iron bowl is placed in the hole in the middle of your table with coals burning. On it a spherical dome is placed with a ‘moat’ surrounding it. From there it is very much cook our own approach. You’re given a plate of raw meats, a selection of glass noodles and vegetables and huge kettle full of stock. You place the meat in the middle to cook whilst filling the ‘moat’ with stock and your selection of veg – and voila, the never-ending hotpot meal results. We washed it all down with a couple of Beer Laos before cycling back to the other side of town.

Laos coffee is something you should definitely try on your Luang Prabang visit. Be warned though, this strong brew isn’t for the faint of heart. For those who like their coffee rich and strong, you’ve come to the right place.

The Lao mostly don’t drink their coffee black, and instead diffuse it with a cocktail of powdered milk, evaporated milk and sweetened condensed milk. They brew it with a massive cloth filter, slightly resembling a large sock, and ensure the brew is extra strong. The result is a thick, sweet, earthly, delicious concoction of rocket fuel to refresh and revive.

We always sought out the places in the mornings where the locals were having their coffees and joined in. You can have it served hot or cold depending on your mood, but I like it both ways and missed this pick-me-up when I returned home.

Where to stay

Luang Prabang isn’t huge and the old town area is very compact so getting around is pretty easy. No matter where you stay you will be able to see everything easily enough.

The old town can be defined as the area within the the Luang Prabang peninsula, which is bounded by the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers. This is where you will find the stunning The Belle Rive Boutique Hotel which overlooks the Mekong. You might also want to check out Villa Santi Hotel - a boutique hotel in a renovated royal mansion. It’s set in a lush tropical garden in the back streets of the old town.

If you are looking for luxury AVANI+ Luang Prabang is a 5-star resort hotel on the main road but most of the luxury resorts are a bit further out of town. Belmond La Résidence Phou Vao is a tranquil hillside resort overlooking the ancient capital, about a 5-minute tuk-tuk ride from the centre of old town.

Book a Luang Prabang stay of your own here.

Nearby

Just a short trip out of town is the picturesque Kuang Si Falls. These famous falls are a must-see and you can read all about it on my dedicated blog here.

Allison Wallace 10/21/19 Allison Wallace 10/21/19

Kuang Si Falls

No matter what TLC says, I will always go chasing waterfalls and that is exactly what Mandy and I did during our visit to Luang Prabang in Laos.

There are a few ways to visit Kuang Si Falls – about 30km outside of town – on a tour, hire a private car or tuk tuk or sharing a trip with others.

We wanted to be on our own schedule so opted to hire scooters and make out own way there.

Once we managed to find our way out of town – not too difficult and we stopped for an early Café Laos to get us going – we found a scenic drive on paved roads that took us through small villages and hilly terrain. I think we both thought that if the waterfalls didn’t live up to expectations, the ride out there was still an incredible way to spend a day.

We stopped in one of those small villages for more coffee and something to eat and it truly felt like we were experiencing a little bit more what real life in Laos looks like.

When you get to the falls themselves, there is a market outside where you can buy water or fruit or even some souvenirs.

There is an entrance fee of 20,000 kip – around $3.50 – which you have to pay in cash when you get there to actually enter the falls.

As you walk through into the lush forest you start to spy the first pools. Tiny cascades tumbled over limestone walls into magnificent natural grottoes. All around was lush foliage and dense jungle.

We stopped to take loads of photos before realising this was just the beginning and the falls become even more breathtaking as you go further in. All just a trailer for the main event.

Kuang Si Falls is a 3-layered waterfall and the mains falls has a drop of 60 metres! Photos definitely don’t even begin to do this place justice.

For the most part, visitors to the falls will congregate around the lower pools and picnic area, venturing perhaps as far as the small wooden bridge that offers stunning and unobstructed views of the main waterfall.

To the right of the wooden footbridge there are some almost-hidden steps that lead the way to the top of the waterfall. The hike up will take about 20 minutes and isn't too taxing in terms of steepness, however after recent rains, we found the terrain a little tricky and definitely slippery in parts. Pretty sure sheer dumb luck is the only reason I didn’t end up on my butt, particularly on the way down.

At the top, there’s a beautiful calm pool shaded by big trees. You can stand on a rickety wooden bridge and watch the water gushing over the edge of the cliff and down to the waterfalls for a different perspective.

The best part about the Kuang Si falls is that in addition to being mind-blowingly beautiful, you can also take a dip in those same tiered pools of turquoise blue water – a refreshing highlight after hiking to the top in the humid air!

Before visiting, a lot of brochures and guide books recommended spending about two and a half hours at the falls, but we found this wasn’t nearly long enough and spent the best part of a day. getting there, exploring, hiking, swimming and making our way back to Luang Prabang in time for sunset over the Mekong.

Lagoons and bridges at the top of the falls

Allison Wallace 10/14/19 Allison Wallace 10/14/19

Diving in Cambodia

Diving isn’t the first thing that comes to mind when you think of a trip to Cambodia but on this trip, we wanted to see what it was like.

After some research on options, my travel buddy Mandy and I decided to add a trip down to Sihanoukville in Cambodia and see what we could see, under the sea.

Sihanoukville itself was once known as a sleepy beach town on the edge of the Gulf of Thailand but the years and Chinese investment have not been kind.

A decade ago, the only foreigners in the city were Western backpackers seeking bamboo huts, $1 meals and empty stretches of sand. Now Sihanoukville is a construction site where jackhammers thunder from nearly every corner and they erect new neon signs for high-rise buildings.

We arrived at a town in the midst of development, construction and casinos (!) popping up everywhere. This didn’t immediately make me feel as though a dive trip from here was going to be amazing.

Thanks to plenty of research on the best places to stay, we had booked a hotel almost as far from the city centre as humanly possible on the beach at Otres II. This meant that aside from interesting tuk tuk rides on unfinished roads with potholes as big as the vehicle, we got to escape from most of this development for the night before and after our dive trip. This was the perfect stop for relaxing – and picture perfect overlooking the white sands and sunset ahead of our overnight dive trip with Scuba Nation.

An early start took us back to town where we geared up and headed down to the harbour with our two dive masters - Max and Allison – along with three other divers.

The boat ride out to our anchorage destination of Koh Tang was about 4-5 hours. This location means fewer divers and better visibility, making it well worth the trip.

The overnight trip includes five dives, two on the first day, one-night dive before dinner and two more the following day. The boat moves around and picks the best spots based on conditions.

We saw no other dive boats or divers the whole trip!

On the first dive at Fly Bye Reef, I was initially disappointed there wasn’t more colour but then the sheer abundance of sea life was amazing. I saw more moray eels on that dive than I have on all my other dives put together!

Dive number two was at Monkey Island, a drift dive and this is where my ears started to hate me as we moved up and down with a maximum depth of just 13 metres. I do remember some cool corals though.

Due to my ears playing up, I missed the night dive at Koh Tang bay which I was gutted about but Mandy tells me it was an awesome drift dive with very active sea life including a bamboo shark.

This dive trip is no luxury cruise and there is one bathroom with a boat shower and the upstairs deck transforms into the open-air bedroom with weather-protection tarps that roll down at night. It is very much like camp but since you are exhausted from diving and snorkelling, falling asleep to the gentle swaying of the boat is easy.

The second day started with a pre-breakfast dive at Explosion Reef – so named because the staghorn coral provides a nursery for a variety of juvenile fish species, giving the impression of an ‘explosion’ of colour as they mingle with other marine life. The group headed down for another dive on Explosion Reef after breakfast - I opted to snorkel after what turned out to be a reverse equalisation that caused a lot of ear pain the night before. Luckily Explosion Reef is only about nine metres at its deepest and visibility was amazing, so there was plenty for me to see from the surface and with the water being a gorgeous 28 degrees I was happy to follow all the excitable black and white fish as they explored for and hour.

We enjoyed a quick lunch before starting the scenic boat ride back to Sihanoukville.

Our experience with Scuba Nation was awesome and the diving was great. The only dark spot on this trip was the regular sightings of Vietnamese fishing boats. These guys are very into their blast fishing – illegally. One of these was so close to our morning dive site that we could see onto the ship and we weren’t very impressed. You can see the effects the blast fishing has on the corals in the area.

While I won’t be rushing back to Sihanoukville any time soon, the memories of the dive trip are definitely worth the effort.

Allison Wallace 9/18/19 Allison Wallace 9/18/19

Angkor Zipline

Did you know that you can zipline and canopy walk while you are visiting the temples at Angkor?

Due to a cancelled flight we ended up with an extra day and night in Siem Reap. Feeling a bit templed-out but still wanting to do something we ended up booking a half-day trip out to Angkor Zipline to try something different.

Besides its famous temples, the Angkor Archeological Park is also home to a huge stretch of barely touched jungle and zipping through the trees is an amazing way to see it.

We opted for the Gold Eco-Adventure Canopy Tour which includes a set meal lunch and guided nature tour after the exhilarating zip-lining which we had to skip in order to get to the airport, but we still felt we got our money’s worth.

After being picked up from our hotel, the morning started travelling down a dirt track near Angkor Thom before gearing up and getting a safety briefing.

My friend Mandy and I were lucky to get basically a private zipline tour with two guides, Visot and Noy, along with our photographer Rosath! They were knowledgeable and enthusiastic and made the adventure even more fun. Their grins were as big as ours as we made our way through the treetops.

It was a warm and humid morning – as always in Siem Reap – but whizzing from platform to platform is a great way to make your own breeze.

Some of the platforms were connected not by zip-lines, but by bridges instead. Seriously, you try walking on one of those Indiana Jones-inspired walkways gracefully in your helmet and harness and I’ll buy you a beer.

In total we experienced six single ziplines, two super ziplines, one double zipline - the best for posing with your bestie mid-flight - and an abseil to the ground for the grand finale.

An interesting fact to note is that this is a true eco-experience which you can see up close when you look at the construction of the platforms and how the 800-year-old teak trees support it. Being inside the UNESCO World Heritage zone is something of an achievement and every part of construction is 100 per cent environmentally sustainable with no impact to wildlife, vegetation and fauna. Not a single nail or cord directly touches a tree.

While we didn’t see any on our visit, a family of endangered gibbons have been reintroduced to Angkor park in this area and all reports are that these shy primates are thriving in their new home.

Angkor Zipline also promotes low-impact visitor behaviour and limits each group to a maximum of nine guests. They also demonstrate a sensitivity towards, and appreciation of, local culture and biodiversity by funding English teachers and supplies for over 100 children and monks daily.

Cambodia’s Forestry officials inspect and approve the course every year because to ensure it is safe and protective of the environment.

This was a fun and enjoyable way to spend an unplanned extra day in Siem Reap and I would recommend it if you have time on your next adventure.

Allison Wallace 9/2/19 Allison Wallace 9/2/19

Shinta Mani Shack, Siem Reap

When looking for a place to stay in Siem Reap, I wanted somewhere that would be a cool and calm oasis to escape to after exploring the bustling town and ancient temples.

There are a couple of reasons I landed on Shinta Mani Shack as the best spot to kick off my adventure in Cambodia.

Not only is this Bill Bensley-designed boutique property - located in the leafy French Quartier between the Royal Gardens and the Old Market Area in Siem Reap town – home to one of the best-looking pools I have ever seen, a portion of my nightly room cost goes directly to the Shinta Mani Foundation.

The goal of the Shinta Mani Foundation is to improve the lives of Cambodians and Cambodian communities by giving them opportunities to overcome poverty. The charity has impacted the lives of thousands – building more than a hundred homes and digging thousands of wells but the organisation does other good works as well, including everything from bicycles to micro-loans to help entrepreneurs become self-starters, but the beginnings were born from the need for good staff. Shinta Mani is a true leader in responsible travel.

So, it was with a happy heart that I arrived into the cool, fresh lobby of this 2019 TripAdvisor Traveller’s Choice winner after a flight from Australia and a hot tuk tuk ride from the airport.

All the senses are accounted for. Think bright colours, neon signs, wild sculptures, and of course… monochrome stripes everywhere.

The happy vibe continued to the room – all of which face the central courtyard with a large black and white striped pool. I stayed in a Poolside Garden Rooms on the ground floor rooms which allowed direct access to the pool through a set of French doors – perfection. Apparently the suites upstairs have more room but I found this to be plenty for my 3-night visit.

An afternoon enjoying refreshing drinks by the pool is an afternoon well spent. In the heat and humidity of Siem Reap, early mornings are the best time to explore the temples.

Delicious Khmer and international food can be eaten at the hotel’s restaurant Baitong or you can wander across the road to the sister hotel, 5-star Shinta Mani Angkor for a special meal.

There's also the laid back Bensley's Bar at Shinta Mani Angkor, the perfect scenic spot for a pre or post dinner drink, and a poolside bar to boot. I particularly loved hanging out on the black and white-striped swing seats for a drink.

I can also recommend a visit to the Shinta Mani Spa. Pamper yourself with massages, body treatments and facials in the most tranquil setting. No outside sounds make it into this space.

Service at the hotel is exceptional and the staff are always on hand with a bottle of water and refreshing cold towels after your adventures.

Shinta Mani Shack is perfect for those looking for a small, stylish boutique hotel in a convenient location in Siem Reap that feels more luxurious than what you are paying. It is about a 15-minute walk, or a 5-minute tuk-tuk ride, to the night market and bar area. The staff will swiftly get you a ride of your choice to take you wherever you want to go.

Allison Wallace 1/3/19 Allison Wallace 1/3/19

Swimming with the Whales

Did you know that the Sunshine Coast was the first place in Australia where you could go swimming with humpback whales?

Yes, SWIM with the whales!

There are not many experiences that are quite as thrilling as watching humpback whales in the wild so imagine getting pretty close to them IN the water…

It’s terrifying, exciting and magical all at once and a memory that will stay with you forever.

Now before you freak out, there are some rules and regulations that go with this adventure.

Before you depart, you will be fitted with a full wetsuit, flippers, mask and a snorkel.

Sunreef in Mooloolaba take out a maximum of 20 people on their whale swimming boats and only 10 people are allowed in the water at any time.

Electronic shark shields are compulsory, there’s limit on the number of people in the water at any given time, and there’s a swim-up limit as well – we got about 30 metres away as this one whale was breaching and playing around the boat. It was completely on the whale’s terms but still breathtaking.

We headed out at 8am for our 4-hour trip and within 20 minutes we had spotted some whales, a mother and a calf. These guys were on a mission so we didn’t swim with them but it was still incredible to see.

The second sighting bore better fruit. When the whale was about 100 metres from the boat, the engines are turned off and one group slips into the water with a guide swimming towards the majestic creature.

At one point, I was head down snorkelling and the whale breached. I didn’t see it but I heard not only the cheers from the guys on the boat but the vibrations and splashes in the water. It felt SO close.

We were so lucky on our day, we hung out with the same whale for hours, swapping groups so everyone got to experience it. Even when you weren’t in the water, watching the playful, up to 30-tonne animal from the boat was awe-inspiring.

The crew on the boat provided water, juice and snacks and were also full of fun and useful information about whales. There was not a single dull moment on our trip – especially when you consider the pod of dolphins swimming on the bow as we headed back to shore.

Sunreef’s Swim with Whales season runs from July until October and I will almost certainly be back next season for another dip!

Allison Wallace 7/29/18 Allison Wallace 7/29/18

Mt Cooroora

Ever wanted to actually call yourself the ‘King of the Mountain’? A hike up Mt Cooroora is your answer!

Soaring 439 metres above sea level, this climb is not for the faint of heart and there will be some sweat along the way. This track is well known for its crazy metal staircases and rock scrambling. The good news is that you will be rewarded with stunning 360-degree views of the Noosa Hinterland, including the coastal lakes and dunes of Cooloola Recreation Area.

To get to the start of Cooroora is easy and the path is well marked at the bottom of Mountain St in Pomona.

The beginning will lull you into a false sense that this is an easy walk with a meandering path around the base of the mountain. This issue is, the beautiful surrounds block your view of the actual mountain so you don’t know who far you have to climb!

Then about half way up there is a bit of a viewing seat off a side path which is a nice spot to catch your breath before the real ascent begins.

From here there is a combination of stairs (a lot of stairs) and some rock-climbing/scrambling to get to the top. This is where the burn happens and you will be grateful for sturdy footwear and a basic fitness level.

I would not recommend attempting this mountain in any sort of rain as those scrambling rock sections would be super slippery.

There is quite a bit of room when you finally reach the top, and a few great little rock ledges where you can settle for a while. There are even a few places you could stop for a picnic if you wanted – there views are definitely picnic-worthy!

Going down was fun but I definitely needed the chains to help me and my short legs down the steep bits!

There was a little bit of foot traffic on the Saturday morning we headed up but that just means you have an excuse to slow down and enjoy the experience rather than just rush up to the top…

I would allow at least 2 hours return to conquer this one and make sure you take regular breaks and plenty of water – especially if it is a warm day. You should probably make sure you carry your water in a backpack because you will need both hands to scramble up and down at points.

If running up mountains is your thing, each year at the end of July, Pomona King of the Mountain Festival is held here.

This means that crazy people actually RUN and RACE up this mountain – and that includes entrants from all over Australia and NZ. For the record, the fastest time in 2018 was 23 minutes and 30 seconds!

Our legs are burning just thinking about that.

We celebrated our climb with a burger and a beer down at the Pomona Hotel which was the perfect way to finish a Saturday morning.

Allison Wallace 7/8/18 Allison Wallace 7/8/18

Maleny Botanic Gardens

If you are looking for a fun day out with the family on the Sunshine Coast, Maleny Botanic Gardens should definitely be on your short list.

Along with over 6 kilometres of walking paths surrounded by some of the most amazing plant life, there is also an aviary where you can get up close with some stunning birdlife!

Stroll through the rainforest, cross the bridge to Zoysia Grass Island and wander the oriental inspired garden, all the while indulging your senses of sight and smell.

There are easy paths through the countless bright flower beds, past waterfalls and ponds, and the serenity is just wonderful. I am not much of a botanist so can’t name the plants and flowers but I can say that they are impressive.

You may also spy some sculptures and interesting figures around the gardens on your walks.

The aviary is home to about 300 magnificent birds, including Australian natives, peacocks, South American Conures, parrots and colourful macaws.

You may find yourself adorned with birds as their cares talk about the different species living here on the guided tours – definitely an ‘up-close’ experience.

Make a day of your visit and pack a picnic to enjoy. You are encouraged to get ON the grass in these gardens. This also means your kids can wear themselves out free range-style

Treat yourself with a Devonshire tea, served in one of the gazebos dotted around the gardens. What is better than scones and tea with those views for just $11?

One of my favourite parts of the gardens are the unbeatable views over the Glasshouse Mountains – a photographers dream!

For those less mobile, access is limited if you are in a wheelchair, but you can hire a golf buggy for $20 an hour and still enjoy the gardens.

There are picnic tables and seats in shaded areas for a rest stop or if you are just looking for place to soak it all in.

You can choose to just explore the gardens for $17 per adult (children under 14 are free) or add on a visit to the aviary for $33 for adults and $12 for kids.